Just because it doesn’t say “organic” on the label doesn’t mean the wine isn’t organic.

Even Hunter Brower, owner of Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse&Wine Bar, was amazed to learn how many organic wines his own restaurant served.

“We did a wine dinner here last year called ‘Green is the New Red,’ and it kinda surprised me that 70 percent of our wine was organic,” said Brower, who opened Fleming’s on the Northside 5 1/2 years ago.

At its most fundamental level, organic wine is made from grapes that have been grown without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides and fungicides. That doesn’t necessarily mean the wines have no sulfites, the natural compound that prevents microbial growth and extends the shelf life of a wine.

“Organic means grapes grown basically with no pesticides,” says Brower. “A lot of the wineries have been doing this for years . . . before it became trendy.”

U.S. wines labeled “organic” cannot contain added sulfites. But wines that are otherwise organic can carry the description “wine made from organic grapes.”

“A lot of wine companies are a little bit leery of putting ‘organic’ on the label because they are afraid that if they do have a year where there is an infestation of something and that they have to use a pesticide of some sort, that they are going to lose that destination,” says Brower.

Q: What is the latest trend in wine drinking?

A: In searching for value, they are doing Chilean. They’re doing Argentinean. They are doing Spanish. They are discovering different varietals they wouldn’t have considered two years ago. Those wines are more value-oriented because their names aren’t as big.

Q: What’s selling the best?

A: Cabernet is still king, and it really doesn’t matter where it’s from. Maybe it’s because we’re a steakhouse and people are going to have red wine with red meat. The white zinfandel is a good one, too. And pinots. Ever since (the movie) “Sideways,” sales have gone through the roof.

Q: How important are wine-food pairings?

A: If you had asked me that question two years ago, I would have said, “Drink whatever you want.” But now I start pairing up the food with my wine. You really do get some different flavors. The right wine can pull out the flavors. Some people might not realize it, but subconsciously it’s happening.

Q: What’s a great match?

A: A cabernet and a ribeye steak. A big cab cuts through the marbling, aka the fat, in a ribeye. One’s not overpowering the other. With fish, it’s primarily sauvignon blancs.

Q: What do you like in wines?

A: I can’t say that there is one style or favorite that I like. The fantastic thing about wines is that they are all different. What other product is there out there where each one can be completely different, from year to year, from acre to acre?

Q: We’re not going to let you off that easily. If you had to choose one bottle right now, what would it be?

A: The Jayson cab (Napa Valley, 2005, $18 a glass, $72 bottle). It’s big, and it has a fantastic finish. It stays with you. Before you’re ready to take that next sip, the last one is still sitting in your mouth and you’re getting the flavor.

Q: California remains king of American wine, but what about the grapes grown in the Northwest?

A: Washington state wines are some of my favorites. There’s something different about them. It’s more of a bordeaux taste than California wines. They say the same line of latitude (46 degrees north) that runs through Washington goes through Bordeaux, France.