At a time when locally owned restaurants often struggle to survive, it's worth seeking out a family business passed down through generations. So it was with that sentiment that my husband and I headed to the Southside to visit the small but friendly Antonio & Maria's Old World Pizzeria.

This cozy little place on Shelby Street near Garfield Park dates from 1955 and is now run by the granddaughter of the original owners. Back then, it was known simply as Maria's; now Maria Carson and her husband, Antonio, ably share naming rights and restaurant duties.

The Food

We ordered a pie to go, and our biggest decision was crust: classic Maria's version (thin and flaky) or the newer Antonio's (chewy). Since this was our first visit, we went with the time-honored Maria's to get an idea of what all those loyal regulars have been ordering through the years.

To top our crust, we decided on the Supremo version in a medium size ($16.55). While we waited, we dined on a small order of hot, buttery breadsticks ($4.85). They came with one dipping sauce, but I love a combo of cheese and garlic, so we ordered an extra container ($1.08). Dip a piece first in the spicy cheese, then in the rich garlic butter and, ah -- appetizer heaven.

We were still happily munching on breadsticks when our pizza was done. Back home, slouched on the couch, we dug into the pie, plenty cheesy and topped with pepperoni, thinly sliced rounds of ham, thicker round slices of Italian sausage and veggies.

The classic Maria's crust was thin and flaky as promised, but my favorite part of this pizza was the sauce. It was a thick, slightly zesty blend of tomatoes and spices, and best of all, it was applied generously.

The Service

Personal attention is as integral as the pizza. When our order was ready, Antonio opened the box, asking me to inspect the pizza before I ponied up my credit card.

The Atmosphere

The eatery has mostly takeout business, as evidenced by the division of kitchen space (plenty) and dining area (not much). But if you prefer to linger, you'll do so in a pleasant environment.

The Price

$22.48 including tax, pricier than your standard chain place, but supporting a family business makes it worth the extra bucks.

Next Time

Antonio's Classico (six types of meat plus onions and "secret grinder" seasonings) sounds tempting.

Antonio & Maria's Old World Pizzeria

Location: 2930 Shelby St.

Price: $ to $$.

Hours: 4:30 to 8.p.m. Monday and Tuesday; 4:30 to 8:30.p.m. Wednesday and Thursday; 4:30 to 10.p.m. Friday; 3:30 to 10.p.m. Saturday; 3:30 to 9.p.m. Sunday.

Reservations: No (but call-ahead carryout available).

Wheelchair-accessible: Yes.

Information: (317) 782-9283.

- By Julie Cope Saetre / Star correspondent