Hair is one of the first characteristics you'll notice about someone. Publicly, hair has caused controversy, hair has caused fights, and hair has inspired artists and creative souls around the world.

That being said, hair is a deeply personal matter, a point of bonding for many. It's a safe bet that you spent at least five minutes fussing with your hair today; some people lay out thousands of dollars a year on hair care. Odd, considering what hair is.

"It is essentially a dead item that is on your head," says Nicole Homoya, co-owner of ALCHEMY art + aesthetics.

We decided to get to the root of the state of hair today, so we invited stylists, designers and owners from some of the Circle City's premier salons.

Does hair act as a mirror for the rest of society? Sort of. Here's what we found:

The products

Hair, like the rest of America, is moving in the same direction as consumer consciousness.

"Go green," says Paul Suttles of Concept Hairspray by Shawn.

Anthony Lineberry, who owns an organic grocery store, Edibles, in addition to Snips, says there are big discrepancies in organic claims. Some products might have organic ingredients, but a higher carbon stamp. Other companies are organic in both ingredients and operations. For example, the Kevin Murphy line from Australia is building manufacturing plants in the States rather than shipping products across the world.

Stylists are taking holistic approaches in creating healthy hair as well.

"I would say more people are getting into protein treatments," says Nefertiti Reed of Elite Images Aveda Salon. These two-part treatments (part protein, part softening conditioner) can undo the damage caused by coloring and relaxing hair.

The looks

For cuts, our stylists said looks are loose and beachy, but all want their customers to look for haircuts that have movement and are classic and beautiful (and flattering to your face).

"I encourage my clients not to follow trends," says Nicole Homoya of Alchemy. "It goes from short hair to long hair in a season."

Lineberry, during a trip to Milan, saw many well-executed cuts that worked because of the movement and styling. "There were still mullets on the streets -- but they were beautiful."

Movement comes from a cutting technique, said Corey Sleet of Bobby Cooper Salon. "You're doing a lot more slicing into the hair, and deep cuts."

Hair, said Emmett Cooper, owner of Emmett's the Studio, is "soft but not sleek, and people are definitely using mousse -- it's softer," and hair is wider instead of fuller, Sarah Cooper said.

Simple, long ponytails are in for proms and weddings, and so is soft, wavy hair; swoopy bangs are in again, and brushed-out curls complete a relaxed look.

"I think we're reaching for that whole 1970s simplicity," Lineberry said.

In salons with a black client base, the styles are just as varied, but clients are looking for low maintenance rather than up-dos.

"It's more about color and cut," Reed says. "It's really about getting up and going. There are really soft styles -- the bobs are totally in. More of the '70s are coming back -- all the different styles from boom-boom straight to wild and crazy."

The '70s are back in a big way across the board, including the way hair is styled at home.

"I have never sold so many hot rollers in my life," Emmett Cooper says.

Color me beautiful

"Over the last five years, I would say African-Americans as a whole have gotten more into color," Reed says. "Most people want it to look natural. That can be highlights, that can be lowlights to add more pigments into your hair."'

Tone-on-tone coloring for natural looks is also popular. If patrons don't want a trendy cut, a trendy color might do the trick.

"Depending on how your client is using it, (color) is such a statement," Lineberry says.

Faded-out jobs in punky colors are in for younger patrons (think of Lily Allen's recent pink dye job), but don't show up at work with a runny green.

Faking it

Extensions are popular, and have extended beyond African-American-based salons (where they still remain popular, Reed says). Clients are asking for extensions with natural textures. Many clients are inspired by Hollywood, mostly because celebrities don't hide that they're wearing extensions.

Also, another faker has made a return from the 1980s.

"Wigs are big," Emmett Cooper says.

All kinds of wigs are popular, including clip-in falls that are easily picked up at the mall.

Au naturel

Embracing what your hair does naturally is in, too. Homoya, who sports wavy hair, didn't know her hair had that texture for most of her teens and some of her 20s, mostly because she spent years blowing it out.

"I feel more comfortable now," she says.

Most stylists want to work with the hair as it is naturally, and agreed that flat ironing is not really flattering to anyone (sorry, Pete Wentz). Flat ironed hair is too severe and unnatural; plus, the heat can cause split ends.

"I think most hairstylists can make any haircut work OK (with natural hair)," Lineberry says. "That's when we really get into that artistry. We can create so much more."

Salon atmosphere

Think of how you feel when you go into a salon. You might overlook it, but the atmosphere is one of the key points to your experience.

Basic points are still on the top of the list.

"I think cleanliness is the biggest," Suttles says.

Emmett Cooper warns that salons can sometimes lose themselves in designing the space -- rather than the hair. "They don't have to have the newest and the greatest."

While fancy-schmancy salon designs might get people in the door, it's service and relationships that bring clients back, Lineberry says, drawing on more than 20 years' experience.

"Really, we just want to create a space that flatters the client," Sarah Cooper says.

Salons are edging away from uptight and snobby, especially as the tightening economy means people have less to spend on their hair. And clients should look for stylists who are willing to update hair.

"The No. 1 reason a client leaves is because the stylist won't change," Sleet says. "There's someone out there who'll say, 'You can look better.'"

Our Panel Of Experts

Paul Suttles Director/designer for Aveda Concept Hairspray by Shawn, 8487 Union Chapel Road, (317) 251-6100.

His hair philosophy:"Inspiring confidence through creating beauty."

Emmett Cooper Owner, Emmett's the Studio, 4907 N. Pennsylvania St., (317) 920-0777, emmett@cooperhaircare.com.

His hair philosophy: "For me, it's definitely a sculpture. I love all things beautiful, and I always find beautiful things about everyone."

Nefertiti Reed Hairstylist, Elite Images Aveda Salon, 5452 E. Fall Creek Parkway, N. Drive, (317) 545-3548.

Her hair philosophy: "I concentrate on the healthiness of the hair. I look at hair not as a whole but as the individual."

Corey Sleet stylist and Sarah Cooper, wife of Bobby Cooper, salon owner and founder, Bobby Cooper Salon, 725 E. 65th St. (317) 251-5000.

His hair philosophy: "Hairstylists are kind of like rock stars." Sarah: "You can take anyone and rock them out."

Anthony Lineberry Co-owner, Snips in Historic Irvington, 5612 E. Washington St. (317) 356-2611, www.Snips-in.com.

His hair philosophy: "We approach hair as a fabric that must be gently worked with to maintain its integrity. "

Nicole Homoya Co-owner, Alchemy art + aesthetics, 1043 Virginia Ave. No. 3. (317) 634-9700, myspace.com/alchemysalon.

Her hair philosophy: "There's something very attractive about visually making this person the best they can be."