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Dining review: 14 West

Indy.com Staff
by Indy.com Staff

Posted: Jun 25, 2008 in Dining

Tags: upscale, calamari, crab cake, business atmosphere

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VENUE INFO

Click below for address and more

109432
The Neuske BLT at 14 West Restaurant, located at 14 West Maryland Street. (Steve Healey / The Indianapolis Star)
109431
Penne Alla Vodka at 14 West Restaurant. (Steve Healey / The Indianapolis Star)
109430
Cheese Platter at 14 West Restaurant. (Steve Healey / The Indianapolis Star)

Fans of Downtown's 14 West used to have to wait until the dinner hour to enjoy the chic eatery's upscale cuisine. But just in time for summer, executive chef Layton Roberts created a lunch menu designed to lure business types to the Circle Centre-area restaurant.

Tempted by the chance to sample new items at lower-than-nighttime prices, I scheduled a midweek lunch with my husband, Pete, and his colleague, Jim. It was a sunny, breezy day, so we sat on the covered patio.

No plastic tables, melamine dishes or paper napkins here, though. The restaurant maintains its business-attire image outside with white-cloth-draped tables, black cloth napkins and stylish flatware, and contemporary lighting and ceiling fans.

Chef Roberts' midday menu borrows a few of 14 West's dinner staples: tempura fried calamari and the crab cake as starters and a lineup of fresh salads. But he added creative sandwiches and entrees for the time-pressed lunch bunch.

We started with the cheese and fruit plate ($13), a platter of brie slivers and toasted bread slices, along with bite-size bits of oranges, apples, strawberries, grapes and walnuts. For dipping and spreading was a sweet jam, a homemade blend of raspberries and blueberries with a hint of orange.

My butternut squash soup ($4/cup) arrived next, drizzled with creme fraiche. Butternut squash may be associated with fall, but I welcomed the opportunity to savor this rich, creamy soup on a somewhat cool summer day. It was the perfect prelude to my entree, penne a la vodka ($12), made with chunks of lamb sausage and topped with Parmesan.

Although the menu described the sauce as spicy, I didn't notice any kick. Still, the flavors blended nicely, and the lamb sausage was a tasty alternative to the more traditional chicken offering (also available). Pete knew what he wanted the moment he saw a listing for the Neuske's BLT ($10). He recently had his first taste of bacon from the Wisconsin-based purveyor, and he was more than ready for an encore. The sandwich didn't disappoint, with the crisp, applewood-smoked bacon clearly the star.

Jim opted for the Angus burger, served in one of three available sizes -- 8, 12 or a truly astounding 16 ounces. Showing restraint, he went for the smallest size ($11), a still-hefty, flavorful burger served on a pretzel bun with cheddar cheese, and fries on the side.

As a lunch destination, 14 West doesn't seem to have caught on with the crowds yet. So, Downtown types, take note: this spot works well for a business lunch with a key client, or as a place to rest your shop-weary heels, while admiring the new ones you just bought from Nordstrom across the street.

Taste Test

Appetizer: Cheese and fruit plate, $13.

Soup: Cup of butternut squash, $4.

Entrees: Neuske's BLT, $10.

Eight-ounce Angus burger. with cheddar, $11.

Penne a la vodka with lamb sausage, $12.

14 West

Where: 14 W. Maryland St.

Atmosphere: Business.

Parking: Street or nearby garages.

Details: V/MC/DIS/AMEX; no smoking; full bar available; outdoor dining available; reservations accepted.

Hours:

Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Dinner: Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10.p.m.; Friday through Sunday, 5 to 11 p.m.

Information: (317) 636-1414.

- By Julie Cope Saetre / Indy.com correspondent

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