Today:
Posted: Jun 18, 2008 in Dining
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George F. Reisch is a man who knows -- and loves -- his beer. His family owned and operated the Reisch Brewery Co. in Springfield, Ill., for 117 years, before closing the business in the mid-'60s. His father went on to serve as brewmaster for the Pabst Brewing Co. You could say, in short, that beer is in his blood.
"My first taste of this life was a dropper-full of George Reisch beer," he recalls. "I took my first steps in the (Reisch Brewing) cellar. It was very traditional. When you were ready to walk, they'd take you out to the cellars and you'd take your first steps.
"All of the aromas from the brewery are deep in my memory. When I dream at night, even if I'm having a dream about a sports legend, it will take place in the Reisch Brewing Company."
Today, Reisch continues the family legacy as the brewmaster and "brewing ambassador" for Anheuser-Busch, which he joined 29 years ago. "I've had a chance to brew with Anheuser-Busch in Brazil, Mexico, Japan, Canada, the United States -- it's been a wonderful ride," he says.
Last week, Reisch's tour brought him to Indy, where he hosted a Brewmaster's Dinner at the venerable St. Elmo Steak House Downtown. During a leisurely three-hour affair, Reisch held court over a five-course meal created by St. Elmo chef Dave Foegley and paired with Anheuser-Busch products.
"Guys, I'm changing your lives tonight," the beer guru told his dining audience. And indeed, those devoted to hops, yeast and malt learned plenty about beer pairings, pouring techniques, glassware and more as they dug into delicacies, including a 1-pound Maine lobster served with Budweiser.
Bud and lobster?
Absolutely, says Reisch. While Bud might seem a better match with greasy burgers than pricey shellfish, the ubiquitous domestic brand actually represents a high level of brewing sophistication, he stresses.
"That's the hardest brew in the world to make. You can't make a mistake with this beer ..... It's very, very good with rich foods like lobster, because it has a sweet component to the taste, but it doesn't get in the way."
Want to host your own beer- pairing dinner -- or just learn how to better enjoy your brew? Here are Reisch's tips:
You know the drill: Grab a glass, tilt it and pour the brew down the side to avoid a foamy head, right? Wrong. "Never (pour) down the side. We put more carbonation in the package than we want you to consume. So those of you who have been either drinking from the bottle or pouring the beer down the side, you have been swallowing huge amounts of CO2."
Instead, pour the beer directly into the center of a glass, which allows beer to foam and excess CO2 to dissipate. As a bonus, hops concentrate in foam, making for a more aromatic experience.
At the dinner, formally clad servers poured the new Bud Light Lime into champagne flutes to showcase its sparkling qualities. But the dark-roasted Michelob AmberBock -- made with caramel and black malts -- was served in a larger, rounded glass. The specially chosen pieces allowed the aroma to be enjoyed and also showed off the beer's rich coloring.
"If you serve it in a narrow glass, it doesn't have the same perception based on appearance. So when you're serving beer to your friends at home, try to use a glass for that style. Dress it up to go out."
Nothing tastes better than an ice-cold brew on a hot summer day. But, it won't fully showcase a beer's complexities.
"Beer goes better with food at about 50 degrees," Reisch says. "Take the bottles out (of the fridge) one half hour before you're going to have the food. You'll see the culinary side of the beer come out. It will mesh better that way."
Slow-food advocates have found an ally in Reisch, who is no fan of meals consumed on the run. Sip and nibble, he practically pleads, don't gulp and grab.
"When you're tasting beer and food, try the beer, then try the food by itself, and just when you think you know what that food tastes like, take (another) sip of the beer ..... It dials up the flavor of the food.
"If you take a sip between every bite, you'll enjoy your food more ..... And it will slow you down, and you'll have conversations, and we'll get back to a real social group."
Combining beer and food is as complex as pairing wine with a meal. Here were some unexpected matches made in heaven at the recent Brewmaster's Dinner, with comments from George F. Reisch:
The dish: Baby spinach and applewood-smoked bacon salad.
The drink: Beach Bum Blonde Ale.
The caramel undertones in this fruity, ever-so-slightly-bitter brew especially complemented the bacon.
"Searing is very aromatic, and it will pop in your mouth."
The dish: Marinated hanger steak with porter demi-glace.
The drink: Michelob AmberBock.
"We use caramel malt and black malt (in AmberBock), so it has a rich, smooth, sweet taste ..... You can taste the caramel, the sweetness. So with caramelized onions, with seared steaks, with the sauce that's on the steaks, this is going to be a perfect pairing. "
The dish: Blueberry-and-peach-topped vanilla bean shortcake.
The drink: Wild Blue, a blueberry-infused lager.
"Brewers are making porters now that are great with desserts. Those of you who have never had beer with dessert, you're really missing something very wonderful."
By Julie Cope Saetre / Indy.com correspondent