Header_posts

Two for twenty: Gumbo A Go-Go!

Kate Johnson
by Kate Johnson
84023
Half-and-half chicken Creole and gumbo is served at Gumbo a Go-Go!, 1420 W. 86th St., where the fare is bounteous, quick and tasty. (James Yee / The Indianapolis Star)
84022
Interior taken at Gumbo a Go-Go! (James Yee / The Star)
84021
Half and half chicken creole and gumbo taken at Gumbo a Go-Go! (James Yee / The Star)

It was a long, painful trek to the Northside during rush hour -- almost as painful as the growing ache in our empty tummies. My boy Hayden and I were in need of a fill-up.

Our journey led us to Gumbo A Go-Go! Another strip-mall scene, but no matter. Ironically, my experience with these places is that they're the most unusual and pleasant, and serve the tastiest fare. And the food's cheap, too.

The mood

The Big Easy would be proud of Gumbo. Posters of New Orleans musicians and Mardi Gras partiers hang on one bright wall. The opposite wall is home to a giant mural of an old-timey dock -- vivid blue skies, steamboats, ferries, and hard-working, painted little men.

Jazz and blues blasted throughout the small, welcoming space. Hayden plopped down on a slatted bench running the length of one wall. I got the chair.

He lined up half-a-dozen hot sauces as we waited for our food. Examining each, he deciphered which was best to splat on his din-din -- a ritual he also engages in at home. Weirdo.

The food

A friendly server/cook/host/busboy took our orders from the blackboard menu behind him. Staples such as red beans and jambalaya share the menu with sandwiches and quite a few vegetarian options like vegan succotash and spinach-artichoke etouffee.

We both ordered half-and-half plates to sample as much as we could -- gumbo and chicken Creole for me, crawfish etouffee and bourbon chicken for him ($6.50 each).

Served quickly on foam plates, our choices were piled high atop white rice and came with spiced bread.

I enjoyed my chicken Creole -- with a base of tomatoes, onions and peppers -- more than the sausage and chicken gumbo.

The bourbon chicken was mild and gone in a flash. The crawfish etouffee satisfied Hayden's craving, a craving I didn't know it was possible to have.

Stuffed, we trashed our plates and were off to the next errand.

The drinks

A fountain drink each ($1.25).

The damage: $16

Gumbo A Go-Go!

Where: 1420 W. 86th St.

Telephone: (317) 337-6422.

Parking: Lot.

Hours: 11.a.m. to 8.p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Follow this thread (RSS)

caf

I like Yats, which also offers fast-food creole style, but lately the flavors seem to be kind of homogenized there. Maybe they're trying to appeal to a less adventuresome audience?

Anyway, the jambalaya at Gumbo A Go Go is awesome, and the "Datwich" is the best sandwich in town, hands down. Try the Datwich; nothing quite like it elsewhere. Be aware that Gumbo A Go Go is somewhat more expensive than Yats, but I think they both offer a great value.

caf on May 15, '08 at 03:02 PM
.iceman

Yats is the best hands down. It's the best cajun-creole served in the area. I just hope Joe gets around to opening a place in Muncie in the near future. I miss Yats the most since I don't work in Indy anymore. Miss ya Joe.

.iceman on May 15, '08 at 05:25 PM
DannyOngias

The Best Cajun in the area is in Mooresville @ Zydeco's. I'll try this place for a quick fix but I'll be heading down SR67 for the real deal.

DannyOngias on May 16, '08 at 05:24 PM
lemmy

I love this place. The datwich is awesome. I went to the new J.Gumbo's Downtown for lunch this weekend. The voodoo chicken is killer. One of the best cajun dishes I've ever had. They are in the old Badaboomz location so the beer is still awesome. 40 drafts of heaven. Mad Anthony IPA washed down the spiciness perfectly.

lemmy on May 19, '08 at 11:40 AM
Log In or register to leave a comment
Flash appears here