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Follow fashion in Indy, from exhibits to runway shows

Jenny  Elig
by Jenny Elig

RELATED EVENTS

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An image from 2007 Black Expo fashion show. Photo by Jay Gambino Esparza.
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An image from 2007 Black Expo fashion show. Photo by Jay Gambino Esparza.
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A fashion shoot featuring clothes by local designer Nikki Blaine. Photo by Jay Gambino Esparza.
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A fashion shoot featuring clothes by local designer Nikki Blaine. Photo by Jay Gambino Esparza
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An image from backstage at the 2007 Black Expo fashion show. Photo by Jay Gambino Esparza.
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These dresses in "Breaking the Mode" "really get at the issue of the function of fashion and fashion as an art form," says Butler art history assistant professor Elizabeth Mix. (Kelly Wilkinson / The Star)

Indiana might not have the fashion history of New York City, Paris or Milan, but the Hoosier state does have a background in style.

"What people don't know (is that) there was always a fashion scene in Indiana. This is the home of Bill Blass, but people kind of shove that under the carpet," says Berny Martin, founder of Midwest Fashion Week, a twice-annual show that highlights the talents of local designers.

Martin, whose Catou line will be among the featured fashions during MFW's "Sacrifice" show March 28 at the Downtown Hilton, says he has seen vast improvements in the Indianapolis fashion scene. Homegrown fashion, showcased in homegrown fashion shows, has sprung up like toadstools in the past year, he said.

In addition to the Midwest Fashion Week shows this weekend at the Jazz Kitchen and the Hilton, fashionistas can check out the creations of local designers during "Project IMA" April 4 at the Indianapolis Museum of Art.

The museum is paying homage to couture designers in the current exhibition "Breaking the Mode," and will celebrate the style and legacy of Halston (an Indiana native) in "Simply Halston" opening April 12.

"There are many artists in the Indianapolis area who create artwork to be worn, and they deserve recognition," says Catherine Fritsch, founder of Mercurious Designs. "No, this isn't NYC high fashion, it's a completely different mentality. There is a lot of cottage industry here, handmade, well-crafted items that are every bit as precious as a couture dress."

The developing scene, however, isn't beneficial just to the consumer.

"It is an exciting time to be living in Indianapolis as a designer. We are evolving into a city of people that appreciate the artistic vision of those living here," says designer Nicole Yalowitz, who started Triple Sparkle by Coco Yalo.

"There is no greater reward for an artist than to be respected and appreciated in their time by the people that are experiencing the same geographical, political and economic influences."

Fashion as art

If you ever thought that clothes were just clothes, and that fashion is nothing more than a way to cover up the body -- you're in for a cut in the fabric of your thoughts.

With works by more than 40 designers who in the past 25 years found ways to turn traditional design on its ear, "Breaking the Mode" extends beyond dresses on mannequins.

"It's not really a typical fashion exhibit," says Niloo Paydar, curator of textile and fashion arts at the IMA. "It's a soft-sculpture exhibit."

The pieces were originally gathered by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art from its permanent collection. After the exhibit unexpectedly drew more than 45,000 visitors, it traveled from L.A. to Florence, Italy, and is making its final stop in Indianapolis before returning home.

An impressive designer roster includes Issey Miyake, Thierry Mugler, Emilio Pucci, Junya Watanabe, Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo, Cristobal Balenciaga, Yeohlee Teng, and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

The Indianapolis exhibit features novel displays for 360-degree views, allowing visitors to imagine these kinetic sculptures in motion.

The pieces are cut in unexpected forms (flying saucers, pyramid forms) created from distinctive materials (paper or pleated fabric), and deal with diverse concepts (androgyny, playful spins on past designers).

Without a doubt, the fashion designers are artists, says Sharon Sadako Takeda, who co-curated the original exhibit at LACMA with Kaye Durland Spilker.

Seven local fashion designers to watch

Halston. Bill Blass. The Sartorialist. These people have more in common than fashion -- they're also from Indiana. As fashion events like the Indianapolis Museum of Art's "Project IMA" and the Midwest Fashion Week continue to prove, Indiana is brimming with fashion talent. We caught up with some of the up-and-comers.

Berny Martin

Age: 31.

Business: Catou; founder Midwest Fashion Week.

Web site: www.catoucouture.com

Upcoming shows: Midwest Fashion Week; "Project IMA."

How did you get started in clothing design? I got laid off. I'm a graduate in computer technology. One day I went to work, and then they called me and said, "Let me have your badges, dude." And that was it. I think it was destined to be like this.

Who are your influences? I'm crazy about Yves Saint Laurent. I would love to shake his hand. He's very classical. I'm just fascinated by this dude.

What inspires you? Life in general. Just walking down the street, I'll probably find something that bugs the hell out of me, and I'll do something about it.

What is one concept you'd like to employ in the future? Classical pieces. With classical pieces, you can't really put a time frame in it.

Where do you want fashion design to take you? Everywhere. Anywhere. The sky, the moon, the universe. Literally, fashion is everything. Where can it take me? Anywhere, everywhere. I don't like to put limitations on my path.

Nikki Blaine

Age: 32.

Business: Nikki Blaine Couture.

Web site: nikkiblaine.com

Upcoming shows: Midwest Fashion Week, "Project IMA."

How did you get started in clothing design? It started when I was in high school. I was doing small things like pot holders in middle school. (Fashion) was something that was intriguing. It was like one thing led to another.

Who are your influences? Valentino, first off. I love him. I love his signature red dress. Gianni Versace, I loved his work -- the colors, the richness. Color draws energy. Christian Dior, for his classical design.

What inspires you? It's the fabrics first, then it's the music. Throughout the whole process, I'm listening to music.

What is one concept you'd like to employ in the future? I would like to design shoes. I love shoes. I had a dream, about two or three days ago, and it was just shoes that were out of this world.

Where do you want fashion design to take you? To be honest, I really would like to be world-renowned. I see myself as being the next Valentino.

Jeremiah Williams

Age: 24.

Web site: www.myspace.com/dirtystreetsex

Upcoming shows: "Project IMA."

How did you get started in clothing design? It is probably from my artistic background to look at everyday things and imagine how I could make them bad-ass. I always loved changing my clothes to what I wanted to express.

Who are your influences? I totally dig D-squared, Ducky, D&G, Etro, Alexander McQueen, Rag & Bone, and Number (N)ine.

What inspires you? What doesn't inspire me? I live near Downtown, and I live behind an abandoned building with street art all over it. I work at a clothing store where I deal with and see people every day who are also interested in their own style.

What is one concept you'd like to employ in the future? I am focusing on a few standard pieces for guys: the hoodie, vest and T-shirt. I am doing my own thing to these basic pieces for guys and taking them out of the box that a lot of guys might not be willing to go.

Where do you want fashion design to take you? I am very realistic in my expectations. I don't expect to be the next Bill Blass or Anna Sui, or one of the successful designers from Indiana. Right now I am just wanting to do my own thing and hope that a few people like my stuff.

Catherine Fritsch

Age: 35.

Business: Mercurious Designs.

Web site: cathy.insideleg.com

Upcoming shows: "Project IMA."

How did you get started in clothing design? I've been designing since I was a kid. Yes, Barbie had some handmade clothes, notably a peignoir from a pair of my mom's old underwear.

Who are your influences? I don't have specific people who influence me -- I can't rattle off designers' names. Yes, there are some I like better than others, but I try hard to not let their work influence my work.

What inspires you? I am influenced and inspired most of all by the world around me, including nature, international clothing, sculpture, raw materials, my friends and everyday objects.

What is one concept you'd like to employ in the future? Geez, I have a huge list of things to try in various notebooks, scribbled in sketch pads and even on a microcassette recorder. Most of them would probably be disasters in real life, but they are ideas that need further consideration.

Where do you want fashion design to take you? I want fashion design to be my creative outlet.

Lindsay Davidson

Age: 25.

Upcoming shows: "Project IMA."

How did you get started in clothing design? I had my start in clothing/wearable art design with the "Strange Fruit" show last October. Then the IMA (for "Project IMA") came along and here I am again!

Who are your influences? My influences include: Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and artist Eva Hesse.

What inspires you? Everything inspires me! It's experience!

What is one concept you'd like to employ in the future? I think in the future I am going to keep with the wearable art concept, but taking it literally.

Where do you want fashion design to take you? I want the design, the painting, the general everyday of doing something creative to drive me to my highest potential, but I hope that it can take the viewer somewhere that they haven't been before, too.

Nicole Yalowitz

Age: 29.

Business: Triple Sparkle by CoCo Yalo.

Web site: nicoleyalowitz.com

Upcoming shows: Midwest Fashion Week, "Project IMA."

How did you get started in clothing design? I have always expressed myself with my clothing choices. I have made things for myself to wear using clothing I already possessed for some time. In 2007, I participated in "Strange Fruit" as a fashion designer. I received great feedback and have since then doubled my efforts; I have three fashion shows this spring.

Who are your influences? John Galliano, Ralph Lauren, the list is long.

What inspires you? I am inspired other cultures, dreams, history and fantasy to name a few.

What is one concept you'd like to employ in the future? I think that it is important for an individual's personality to shine through what they choose to wear. I want to make clothing that allows the wearer to "rock it" their own way.

Where do you want fashion design to take you? I am enjoying the ride. I would love to have some pieces in boutiques around the country.

MaryAnne T. Nguyen

Age: 27.

Business: Freelance artist/designer, instructor at Herron School of Art and Design; organizer of benefit fashion shows.

Upcoming shows: "Project IMA."

How did you get started in clothing design? My mother taught me how to sew when I was younger. I used to help her make my Halloween costumes. I've been designing for a few years but not publicly until 2007.

Who are your influences? I love John Galliano, Olivier Theyskens, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Yohji Yamamoto ..... the more eccentric designers.

What inspires you? My inspirations include, but are not limited to, the human form, beauty (both inner and outer), color, emotion, narrative, social identity, and a dash of chaos.

What is one concept that you'd like to employ in the future? The possibilities are endless! Although, one concept that I would like to try is the "color-blind" or "back to basics" concept, where I would design all my pieces in white materials.

Where do you want fashion design to take you? I would like fashion design to give me a better understanding of people and society, and take me to the ends of the Earth.

Fashion events

Breaking the Mode

Where: Indianapolis Museum of Art, 4000 Michigan Road.

When: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday and Friday; noon to 5 p.m. Sunday, through June 1.

Cost: $12 for nonmembers, $10 for seniors, $6 for children and students with a valid ID.

Info: (317) 923-1331, www.imamuseum.org.

Orquesta Bravo!

Includes a runway show featuring the fall/winter 2008 collection of local, regional, national and international designers. Part of Midwest Fashion Week.

When: 7:30 p.m. March 27.

Where: Jazz Kitchen, 5377 N. College Ave.

Tickets: $10, $7 in advance.

Info: (317) 253-4900.

Sacrifice: Midwest Fashion Show

Designs from Catou, Triple Sparkle by Coco Yalo, Miss Bruno, Joan Vaccianna, Larou and Donna J. Pollard Conner. Includes music by the Arbor Trio and dance by Tamara. Black tie.

When: 8:30 p.m. March 28. VIP reception at 7:30 p.m.

Where: Hilton Hotel, 120 W. Market St.

Tickets: $20, $55 VIP, $15 advance purchase at WiP, 363 N. Illinois St.

Info: (317) 408-9186.

IMA Fashion Events

In conjunction with its "Breaking the Mode" exhibit, the Indianapolis Museum of Art has scheduled several fashion-related lectures, style shows and other events. All events are at the IMA, 4000 Michigan Road. Call (317) 923-1331 or visit www.imamuseum.org for more information.

Now Hear This: The Language of Design

Nikki Sutton, founder of Level -- Interior Architecture + Design, leads a tour of "Breaking the Mode" and explores the intent of fashion design.

When: 6:30 p.m. April 3.

Where: Meet at the Special Exhibition Gallery entrance.

Tickets: Tour is free. Exhibit tickets are $12, free for members.

Project IMA Fashion Show

An art show featuring avant-garde creations from local fashion designers.

When: 7 p.m. April 4.

Where: Pulliam Great Hall.

Tickets: Free.

Simply Halston

Garments by fashion designer Roy Halston Frowick, who grew up in Indiana and designed for several celebrities.

When: April 12 through Nov. 2.

Where: Paul Fashion Arts Gallery.

Tickets: Free.

Fashioning Art (Around the IMA)

Butler University professor Elizabeth Mix leads a tour of "Breaking the Mode," "Simply Halston" and the contemporary galleries, exploring how artists address gender and performance.

When: 6:30 p.m. April 24.

Where: Meet at the Special Exhibition Gallery entrance.

Tickets: Tour is free. Exhibit tickets are $12, free for members.

Japonisme: Fashion and Folds

Tour "Breaking the Mode" with Butler art history professor Elizabeth Mix to discuss and see examples of Japanese fashion. Tour includes a visit to the "Square-Folds-Life" origami exhibit.

When: 6:30 p.m. May 1.

Where: Meet at the Special Exhibition Gallery entrance.

Tickets: Tour is free. Exhibit tickets are $12, free for members.

Adult Art-Making Class

Theme: Constructing clothing. Students will create clothing while using inspiration drawn from fashion magazines.

When: 6 to 8 p.m. Thursdays, May 1-29.

Where: Red/Green Art Labs

How much: $80, $56 for members. Register by April 16.

Teen Art-making Class

Theme: "Wearable Art With a Twist." Participants ages 16 and 17 alter their own clothing, such as T-shirts or jeans.

When: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays, May 3-31.

Where: Red Art Lab.

How much: $125, $87.50 for members. Register by April 16.

DeConstruct: ReConstruct

Artist Cat Chow will lead a workshop about using fabric from old clothing to make new wearables. Attendees should bring some old clothing.

When: Noon to 5 p.m. May 4.

Where: Deer Zink Events Pavilion.

How much: $15, $12 for students and seniors, $8 for members.

Street & Elite: The Sartorialist's World of Style

Indiana native and GQ columnist Scott Schuman talks about his blog The Sartorialist and other style-related topics.

When: 7 p.m. May 8.

Where: DeBoest Lecture Hall.

Tickets: $8, $4 for members.

Model, Muse or Guinea Pig?

Nikki Sutton leads a tour that explores how designers use the female form when creating their fashions, and how that affects women who wear them. When: 2 and 3:30 p.m. May 11.

Where: Meet at the Special Exhibition Gallery entrance.

Tickets: Tour is free. Exhibit tickets are $12, free for members.

Moving Forward, Backward and Sideways: Artist Nick Cave

Multimedia artist Nick Cave, who uses textiles in his work, screens two video works and discusses them.

When: 6:30 p.m. May 29.

Where: DeBoest Lecture Hall.

Tickets: Free.

Film: 'The Fifth Element'

A screening of the 1997 futuristic PG-13 film starring Bruce Willis features costumes by Jean Paul Gaultier, whose work is also featured in "Breaking the Mode."

When: 7 p.m. May 30.

Where: DeBoest Lecture Hall.

Tickets: Free.

Fashion fills the calendar

From trendy nightclubs to local boutiques, fashion seems to be popping up all over -- and just in time for spring. Here's a look at several upcoming fashion shows/events:

Emporium: The Next Evolution Spring Fashion Show

Features the spring Monarchy Collection. With special guest MC Catt Sadler from E! Entertainment's Daily 10 Show.

Details: 11 p.m. March 29 at Gelo Ultra Lounge, 5252 E. 82nd St. $5. (317) 577-9570.

Travelocity: Fashion From All Over the World

A showcase of fashion trends from around the world. Features a DJ and eight different scenes. Audience members will be invited to the runway during one intermission.

Details: 8 p.m. April 5 at Buskirk-Chumley Theatre, 114 E. Kirkwood Ave., Bloomington. $7, $5 in advance. (812) 323-3020.

Victorian Tea: An Afternoon of Delicious Treats and a Lesson in Thrift Shop Fashion

Features the gallery's antique tea cup collection, along with music, door prizes, raffles and a fashion show. Proceeds benefit the Gallery Foundation.

Details: 2 p.m. April 13. Doors open at 1 p.m. Reservations requested by April 7. Brown County Art Gallery, 1 Artist Drive, Nashville. $25. (812) 988-4609.

Perfect Wedding Guide Bridal Show

Strolling wedding fashions presented throughout the day.

Details: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. May 4 at Montage, 8580 Allison Pointe Boulevard. $10, $9 in advance. (317) 228-9333, www.perfectweddingguide.com

Frankey's Style Show & Luncheon Tour

Indianapolis boutique Frankey's will host a fashion show and luncheon. Part of St. Margaret's Hospital Guild Decorators' Show House and Gardens.

Details: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. April 24 at 4266 N. Pennsylvania St. $50. Reservation required. www.showhouseindy.com

A WINK at Fashion

Style show featuring area boutiques with a focus on clothing for women in business. Includes hors d'oeuvres and beverages and a cash bar.

Details: 6 p.m. April 24 at The Mansion at Oak Hill, 5801 E. 116th St., Carmel. $20, $15 in advance. (317) 846-4043.

Indy Baby Expo

Learn about nutrition, health and safety. Events include a baby and toddler fashion show.

Details: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. April 26-27 at Indiana State Fairgrounds, 1202 E. 38th St. $5, free for grandparents and children 5 and younger. www.indybabyexpo.com

Bouquet of Boutiques

Shop at participating boutiques and receive a flower. Women who complete their bouquet will be eligible for a makeover.

Details: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. April 26 at Zoey's boutique, 8974 E. 96th St. Free. (317) 579-1400.

Mother's Day Fashion

Dance programs and fashion.

Details: 5 to 7:30 p.m. May 10 at Municipal Gardens Park, 1831 Lafayette Road. $7. Registration required. (317) 327-7285, www.indyparks.org

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Nicole.Yalowitz

This is indeed an exciting time!

Nicole.Yalowitz on Mar 27, '08 at 11:22 AM
lisa_citymouse

That does it. No more Project Runway for me. :)

Seriously, though, it is good to find out about more local designers.

lisa_citymouse on Mar 28, '08 at 10:51 AM
Polina Osherov

Midwest Fashion Show was great! Looking forward to Project IMA.

Polina Osherov on Apr 02, '08 at 11:56 AM
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