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• Jockamo Upper Crust Pizza

Small slaughter house five pizza, $10.45, from Jockamo Upper Crust Pizza. (Michelle Pemberton)

Small Make your own Pizza, with red, yellow and green peppers, red onion, goat cheese, $11.00, from Jockamo Upper Crust Pizza. (Michelle Pemberton)

In the not-so-distant past, Indianapolis' Eastside wasn't even on the radar of gourmet-pie purveyors who passed over the area in favor of trendier Mass Ave., Broad Ripple and far Northside.

Not so anymore.

Fortunately, a quartet of entrepreneurs decided to invest in the restaurant-starved area, bringing Jockamo Upper Crust Pizza to the heart of Irvington shortly before Halloween.

The restaurant has quickly turned into a neighborhood staple, packing in crowds clamoring for specialty and create-your-own pies.

The Food

On a recent visit, my husband, Pete, and I ordered drinks and salads to start our meal. Jockamo's dressings are house-made -- except for the light versions -- "because we don't know how to make anything with less than the calories God intended," according to the menu.

I chose the Gorgonzola to accompany my small house salad ($2.95). The rich dressing paired perfectly with a plentiful amount of iceberg and Romaine leaves topped with shredded carrots, black olives, diced tomato and cucumber and freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Pete went with the Health Nut Salad ($2.25), a tasty blend of broccoli, red onion, tomato, cukes and pine nuts in creamy garlic dressing. Although smaller than my house salad, it was a creative alternative to a lettuce-based side.

We decided on individual 10-inch pies. For those willing to share, 12- and 16-inch pizzas also are available.

It was no surprise that my carnivorous hubby went straight for the 10-inch Slaughterhouse Five ($10.45), a Kurt Vonnegut tribute with pepperoni, sausage, ham, bacon and Italian beef.

Yeah, it's a protein overload, but the meats were tasty.

I went the create-your-own route, choosing from among Jockamo's regular and specialty toppings to concoct a 10-inch pizza with pepperoni, chorizo, red and yellow bell peppers and fresh garlic ($11). The chorizo blends heat with a shot of cinnamon for a spicy-sweet flavor that teamed well with the fresh garlic and pepperoni slices.

The thin crusts -- seasoned with basil and garlic -- crisp up nicely on the edges. The rich, thick house-made tomato-based sauce topped both of our pies. Other sauces are offered -- pesto, barbecue, Alfredo, black bean, creamy Parmesan, hummus -- but I'll have a hard time tearing myself away from lycopene-packed tomato goodness on future orders.

The Service

This place is bustling, even on weeknights, but the servers do a fine job of keeping up with the pace. They don't have time to stop and chat, but their friendly efficiency keeps drink and food orders moving smoothly, without rushing you through the meal. We felt welcome to linger over our drinks after the pizza platters were cleared away.

The Atmosphere

The setting is simple: painted concrete floors; wood tables, chairs and booths; and walls with wood paneling below and cheerful gold and rust paint shades above. The large plate-glass windows overlooking Washington Street sometimes show off artwork created by area kids.

A small bar makes room for about six along a back wall.

The Price

$33.01 -- a great price for specialty pizzas, tasty salads and two beers.

Next Time

If I'm in the mood for a spicy kick, I'll order the Caliente, with more of that yummy chorizo, plus jalapeños, green peppers, red onions and cheddar cheese. Or I might take a more healthful approach with the So-Cal, stacked with avocado bits, a bell-pepper mix, basil and goat cheese.

Julie Cope-Saetre / Star Correspondent