Blink and you'll miss it. Tucked inside the warehouse-style building that plays home to the recently relocated Kahn's Fine Wines & Spirits on Keystone Avenue is a nifty little sandwich shop called Big City Delicatessen. Big City caters to the lunch and early-dinner crowd with more than a dozen specialty sandwiches along with soups, salads and sides.

The mood

The setting here is simple and cheerful, with warm-yellow walls illuminated by west-facing windows and stylish hanging lamps. The yellow hue repeats on the floor, along with green- and red-block accents. Large black-and-white-framed photos of historic city skylines serve as art. A small number of tables and booths provide a respite for customers eating in, although most patrons here are of the grab-and-go variety.

The food

True to theme, sandwiches take the names of major metropolises, from a New York Reuben and Dublin corned beef on rye to a Chicago-style hot dog and Santa Fe chicken wrap. Any of the selections can be incorporated into a Big City Special, a combo with one-half of a sandwich and your choice of either a side (baked-potato salad, coleslaw, cottage cheese) or a cup of soup or Cincinnati chili.

In homage to our upcoming trip to Key West, my husband, Pete, ordered the special with a Miami Cuban sandwich ($6.99), the closest geographical reference on the menu. Grilled within a hoagie roll were the classic fillings of pork and ham, along with Swiss and provolone cheeses, mustard and mayo. Pete, somewhat of an aficionado of Cuban sandwiches, described Big City's version as "quite good" with fresh ingredients.

I chose the special as well, but with the "build-your-own-sandwich" option ($6.49). Determined to reverse my recent string of high-cal choices, I requested smoked turkey on whole-wheat bread, dressed with provolone cheese, spicy brown mustard and lettuce. Big City serves Boar's Head meats and Gonnella breads, and both brands lived up to their reputations for quality. The turkey was piled sufficiently high, the provolone was thinly shaved and the grainy, spicy brown mustard added a nice kick.

Perhaps the biggest surprise came from the Cincinnati chili. Pete ordered his with cheese and onions; I decided on an unadorned cup. The piping-hot mixture included ground beef, red and regular beans and onions and was far from the bland chili offerings that seem so typical of mild-mannered Indy. This version was nicely seasoned and just a bit spicy -- perfect for beating the wintry spring weather outside.

The drinks

We ordered bottled Diet Cokes ($1.29 each), although domestic and premium bottled beers and single servings of select wines are available. If you feel like joining a friend for a toast over a hot pastrami or gourmet grilled cheese, stop in at Kahn's first to purchase your favorite vintage. Big City will open and pour your selection for an $8 corkage fee.

The damage: $17.34

As deli-deprived Eastsiders, we enjoyed our Big City visit. We easily stayed within the budget without walking away hungry. And the staff was as friendly as promised on the take-out menu. Good food, no attitude: nice combo.

By Julie Cope Saetre, Correspondent