Wadley's Bar-B-Q doesn't dress to impress. The unassuming, family-owned spot, tucked into the corner of a white-stone building on South Meridian Street, has a simple neon "Open" sign in the window, along with lighted lettering modestly stating "Ribs." Get to know the place, though, and you'll discover that behind the laid-back facade lies plenty of substance.

The mood

This is a carryout-only joint. What you'll find inside is a large white-walled room with a counter up front and a food-prep area in back. A wall-mounted menu lists the regular offerings, while daily specials are handwritten on a small counter-based board. No decorative accents here, unless you count the aroma of wood-smoked meats wafting across the counter.

The food

Wadley's menu is simple: ribs, pork sandwiches, pulled pork sold by the pound and sides (baked beans, slaw, potato salad). The meat is billed as "a taste of West Tennessee hickory-smoked pork." Not having traveled to that area, I can't vouch for the authenticity, but as a rib-lover, I can say this stuff is very, very good.

I stopped by on a weekday afternoon to grab takeout for a late lunch and immediately was drawn to the rib dinner ($6.95). What I got: a hearty five-bone sampler of Wadley's dry-rubbed ribs and my choice of two sides.

The ribs came wrapped in plastic and were served with a side of warm sauce, either mild or hot. Meaty and tender, the ribs sported a slightly crusty (in a good way) coating of rub. The thick, rich sauce (I chose the hot version) was sweet and spicy, a combination that complemented the ribs without overpowering their flavor.

For my sides, I opted for coleslaw and baked beans. The tartness of the vinegar-based slaw paired well with the savory ribs-and-sauce combo. Rib meat was mixed in with the baked beans, which featured a milder barbecue base. As a treat for my husband, I ordered the jumbo-sized barbecue pork sandwich, served with a bag of chips ($4.59). A generous amount of pulled pork overflowed a soft burger bun. The whole sandwich was then neatly wrapped in waxed paper and held together with a wooden pick for easy transport home. When sampled later, the sandwich proved to be a worthy menu companion to the ribs, perfect for a barbecue fix when you want easily manageable eats.

The drinks

Cold canned soft drinks are available for 65 cents each; I grabbed a Diet Pepsi for the road.

The damage: $13.17

Service is friendly, the ribs are every bit as good as -- and in some cases better than -- the goods you get at a festival, and the prices can't be beat.

Call ahead, and your order will be ready at the drive-up window. The owner also caters, so if you have a group to feed, this is a great option.

By Julie Cope Saetre, Correspondent