A destination in Broad Ripple for two decades, Midtown Grill maintains its superstar status with a menu of seasonal, thoughtfully concocted dishes. Ryan Borchelt, who earlier this year took over as executive chef, puts a new spin on his menu every three months with a sure and restrained hand.

Diners wax romantic or talk business over unfussy fare in this low-key, upscale restaurant.

The food

Borchelt's winter menu fights the cold gray with robust dishes, many of them playing off some aspect of traditional Midwestern fare and given a slight detour courtesy of the chef's broad range of culinary influences.

Steak bruschetta ($10) melds seared beef, caramelized onions and blue cheese atop grilled baguette slices brushed with house-made barbeque sauce.

Tomato slices in the fried green tomato salad ($9) are coated in panko and stacked with goat cheese and greens tossed in Champagne vinaigrette. Dried cherries grace the apple and endive salad ($6), as does an abundance of blue cheese and walnuts.

The entree list is meat-heavy for the season, with lamb shank, veal meat loaf and several beef dishes competing with a few pastas and a handful of seafood dishes.

Pan roasted sea bass ($25) is served atop porcini gnocchi and an intensely woodsy mushroom sauce tinged with a restrained bit of truffle oil. Borchelt serves grilled beef medallions ($25) under a tangle of spaghetti squash and over creamy potato "risotto" with a rich merlot demi sauce.

Out of the handful of desserts, our choices were clear: chocolate molten cake ($6.50) and ginger creme brulee ($6), both as delicious as they were beautifully presented.

The service

Our server was pleasant, efficient and well-informed about the menu, but she tripped over a service point that should have been second nature in a fine-dining restaurant: clearing dishes from one course before the next. Creme brulee is plenty manageable without a bread plate.

Atmosphere

Midtown Grill has a mild case of split personality, with a lush and recently revamped lounge on one side (you can order from the full menu there), and a somewhat dated, minimalist dining room on the other. Even within the dining room, confusion continues: Each wall has a separate identity -- funky lights here, framed geometric paintings there, and between them, recessed shelves holding backlit crags that look like moon rock. A sweeping look can be vertiginous.

The price

Our tab was $118 for two, including tax and tip, about what I'd expect for the high style and graceful execution of the dishes.

Next time

Is a Maine lobster quesadilla a good idea? I'd investigate the appetizer on my next visit. Entree-wise, I'm intrigued by the coriander-encrusted ahi tuna, served with cilantro rice, bok choy and sweet chili ponzu.

-- By Traci Cumbay / Star Correspondent, 12/29/2006