An atmosphere as traditional as the menu draws families, large groups and a smattering of couples to Augustino's small dining room to enjoy dishes like eggplant parmesan, veal Marsala and lasagna.

With a new owner running the kitchen, the menu is taking a turn toward the fresher, and nightly specials are easing creativity into the offerings (grouper, for example, gets Italian sausage in its breading).

The meatballs, however, and the Sicilian red sauce that tops them won't be going anywhere. There's no reason to mess with raging success.

The Food

As chef and owner Aaron S. O'Mara gets his bearings (he and his family took over the restaurant in September), he's adding more fresh-made choices to the menu and hopes to start doing more grilling in the pasta-focused restaurant.

O'Mara is still riding the momentum of a "best meatball" designation by Indianapolis Dine magazine, and a banner in the dining room makes sure guests know about it. I'm as marketing-influenced as the next meatball lover and gave spaghetti and meatballs ($11) a try. Swathed in sweet tomato sauce, they were mildly seasoned and toothsome, but I was more thrilled by the fact that my spaghetti still had snap, which is weirdly rare.

Before the spaghetti, though, my guest and I had a couple of appetizers: ricotta-filled toasted ravioli ($6) served with alfredo sauce, and thickly breaded fried calamari ($7.50).

Another entree, chicken Picasso ($14) was the meal's star. It's a lightly spicy dish that combines sliced chicken breast, tomatoes, onions and peppers in a cream sauce with penne pasta. Crushed red pepper sneaks up through the richness.

We finished with a wonderful tiramisu ($4), one drenched in coffee and liqueur, with a thick dusting of cocoa and a swirl of chocolate sauce for good measure.

The Service

Our server was congenial and knew the menu well, but could have benefited from more experience. She had support from an attentive busser, who was faster with extra napkins and to-go boxes.

The Atmosphere

Open enough to offer a familial din when the dining room fills up, casual and friendly Augustino's follows the Italian restaurant script with green and red figuring heavily in the scheme and ample black-and-white family photos lining one wall.

The Price

$56 for two, including tax and tip. The cost felt about right. Its food isn't remarkable, but it is fresh and tasty. And Augustino's is of the big-portion ilk, meaning my dinner also served as two lunches.

Next Time

I'll head in for brunch. Since the O'Maras took over, Augustino's has begun offering an a la carte Sunday brunch that includes a few pasta and specialty dishes from the regular menu and breakfast draws like mascarpone-stuffed French toast with berries, frittatas and rice pudding with rum raisins.

-- By Traci Cumbay / Star Correspondent, 2/16/2007