Inside the India Garden new location at 207 N. Delaware Street in Downtown Indy. (Matt Kryger for The Star)

For several months, Downtown was without one of its lunchtime hot spots as India Garden prepared a new location after losing its long-held lease on Illinois Street. As of mid-September, the busy lunch buffet and quiet, exquisite dinners are back, three a couple blocks east of over from the original location in a bigger, sharper-looking dining room.

The Food

A basket of papadum (thin, crispy lentil crackers), and a couple of tangy sauces (tamarind and a cool, citrusy blend of cilantro, jalapeno, and then some) came immediately to our table and sustained us through the rather demanding menu. Oh, it's laid out sensibly and easy to read, with descriptions of each dish that don't leave a diner wondering, but holy poori, the thing goes on forever -- through tandoori and seafood, chicken, rice and vegetarian dishes.

A few friends had pointed me toward panir pakora ($3.95), but the chickpea-battered mild cheese didn't wow us as much as the big, crisp and flavorful vegetable samosa ($2.95 for two).

Chicken madras ($12.95) had a slightly sweet underpinning in its many-layered, knockout tomato-onion sauce. The lentils in the tarka dal ($7.95) were stewed soft and flavored with ginger and garlic. Another standout was something new for our party -- kadhi kofta ($8.95). The fried vegetable patties were sweet and rich and served in a nuanced yogurt sauce with ample flavor and heat.

A basket of aloo pratha (potato-stuffed bread, $2.75) and garlic naan ($2.75) rounded out our dinner; savory kulfi (nutty ice milk, $2.95) and rasmalai (rosewater-heightened cheese balls in milk, $2.95) brought it to a close.

The Service

Plenty of servers prowl the floor and step in to carry food or refill water as needed. Our main server had charm as heady as the seasonings in the dishes he delivered, and he was unfailingly on hand when we needed him.

The Atmosphere

The dining room at India Garden's new location sprawls, but it's warmed up by embellished arches and intricate wall hangings. The feel is slightly formal, although the restaurant really isn't, as the number of families with young children attests.

The Price

$66, including a necessarily juicy tip. No price stood out as too steep, and we could've gotten out of the restaurant for significantly less were we not strategizing for leftovers.

Next Time

The kadhi kofta haunts my noggin, and is reason enough to head back in. Then again, tandoori is a specialty of the house, and the lamb and fish versions tempt.

Traci Cumbay / Star correspondent