The man spinning dough above his head behind a louvered window at the rear of the restaurant is Stefano himself -- Steven Enriquez, who was a manager of the former Cio's.

Though Cio's occupied the same space for just a short time, its immense thin-crust pizzas made a lasting impression.

Those same pizzas are on the menu at Stefano's, where owner and Queens native Enriquez tosses giant, New York-style pizzas that he bakes in a brick oven.

The Food

Shortly after taking a seat in Stefano's, you'll likely see someone walking out of the restaurant with an immense pizza box.

Toppings are few (no need to muck up a perfect crust and great cheese) and largely traditional -- pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms -- but with eggplant and spinach thrown in for stylish measure.

From the three combinations on the menu, I went without hesitation for the white pie ($17.49 for a 16-inch pizza) -- olive oil, fresh garlic, mozzarella and ricotta. This is a hard-to-beat combination, and Stefano's version is epic, with ample dots of creamy ricotta.

Enriquez turns part of the pizza dough he makes daily into garlic knots -- small twists of dough brushed with garlic butter, baskets of which accompany many entrees.

Appetizers include the expected (mozzarella cheese sticks, fried calamari) and the chichi (mussels sauteed with white wine and butter).

Stefano's serves a number of calzones and subs; pastas -- many of them topped with Enriquez's sweet, light marinara sauce -- make up half the menu.

My lunch date and I sampled that sauce atop crisp slices of fried eggplant ($7) for an appetizer and on big spinach ravioli ($9.45) It also shows up on dishes like veal parmigiana, baked ziti and lasagna.

The Service

There are two ways to experience Stefano's -- as a full-service restaurant or as a carryout restaurant. A pizza window around the corner has slices and calzones ready to be popped into containers.

The Atmosphere

A vast dining room hasn't yet made the transition to warmth. Sedate contemporary decor is lent vibrancy by windows and smiling servers clomping across the wood floors.

The Price

$46 for two, with tax and tip. Stefano's offers the same menu all day, which can make for an expensive lunch, depending on whether you crave a calzone ($6.50) or the pasta trio (lasagna, baked ziti and fettuccini Alfredo for $12.95).

Next Time

Enriquez makes a mean marinara sauce, but pizza is the best reason to stop in. I'll be back for more of the white pie.

-- By Tracy Cumbay / Star Correspondent