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• Huachinango

Huachinango al Ajillo taken at Huachinango (James Yee for The Star)

Interior taken at Huachinango. (James Yee for The Star)

Huachinango's Shrimp soup (James Yee for The Star)

It's a restaurant with a slightly formal ambiance and a menu full of sea-drawn dishes rife with wonderful, fresh flavors shown off in simple preparations.

Sexy enough for a dinner date and amply friendly for a family lunch, Huachinango stands alone.

The Food

Steaks and a smattering of "Texas Favorites" -- fajitas, flautas, a chimichanga -- appear on what otherwise is a fish- and seafood-focused menu. Traditional Mexican shrimp cocktails come flavored with tequila or mixed with oysters and octopus. Fillets of salmon and orange roughy show up grilled, steamed, breaded or sauteed and sauced spectacularly.

It's a menu that makes choosing a challenge.

My guests and I started with the memorable botana verde ($8.95) -- a bounty of shrimp, octopus, clams, blue crab and red snapper in cilantro cream sauce. Ask for bread, so none of the luscious sauce goes to waste.

Shrimp soup ($6.95 for a small bowl) is savory and strongly spiced; its rich broth teems with shrimp and vegetables.

Mariscada en adobo ($13.95) brought together the same mix of seafood as our appetizer, this time in mild, tangy adobo sauce with white rice and steamed vegetables.

I would have been delighted with my order had someone else at my table not chosen the scene-stealing huachinango al ajillo ($24), a fried whole red snapper, butterflied and topped with sauteed garlic and guajillo peppers. Buttery brandy sauce gave it no end of yum with rich, savory depth. Rice and vegetables shared the plate, but went ignored. If you can fork some of the tastiest fish in town, why bother with zucchini?

The Service

Two smiley servers attended the 11 tables in the dining room, sharing duties instead of divvying up the tables. Both were warm and attentive.

The Atmosphere

High-backed black leather chairs dominate the small, stylish room. On the tables, fresh tulips punctuated the black tablecloths. The place looks so nice that I worried for a moment we'd be turned away for bringing a toddler, but no -- Huachinango is family-friendly.

The Price

$78 for three adults and a child, including tax and tip. Higher than I'd expected, but not at all out of line with the quality of the experience.

Next Time

I'd be happy to order the huachinango al ajillo at every visit, but for variety's sake, maybe I'll go for the a la diabla shrimp in chipotle cream sauce or rib-eye tacos.

- By Traci Cumbay / Star correspondent