When Keystone Grill became El Torito Grill late last year, the restaurant seemed to come into its own. Out with the deco influence, in with a contemporary, bright atmosphere that makes the most of the building's Spanish style, as well as a menu just as stylish.

The small, California-based chain makes panache part of each dish and rounds out its casual dining formula with unusually slick service and stunning decor.

The Food

Take a seat in the red-and-yellow-dominated restaurant, and someone sidles up with a cart of avocados, cilantro, onions, tomatoes. Order guacamole ($7.99) just how you like it and watch ingredients become ambrosia. Skip the guacamole and you still get fresh flour tortillas served with two salsas and honey butter.

No dish comes out of El Torito Grill's' kitchen without being coaxed into an artistic formation. Our first evidence? Lobster tamale cake ($7.99), a striking presentation of the tamale cake, pineapple-mango salsa, jalapeno butter and chipotle sauce.

Entrees include standards such as tacos, burritos and enchiladas, but more exotic options called to us. Black-pepper tamarind barbecue shrimp ($15.99 and dressed up with statuesque fried plantains) swim in rich sauce next to cilantro rice. One of the night's specials -- sea bass ($20.99) -- is served atop roasted pepper with sweet corn cake, chunky mashed potatoes, asparagus and a trio of savory sauces.

The dessert list includes flan, a chipotle-tinged molten chocolate cake that unfortunately had been sold out, and our waiter's pick, the peanut tostada ($4.29), in which a thin peanut brittle shell boosts super-creamy cappuccino ice cream and caramel sauce.

The Service

A server, a busboy, a guacamole-maker: Take a seat in El Torito Grill and find yourself in the hands of a team, most representatives of which ably offer professional, even slightly formal, service.

The Atmosphere

El Torito Grill may be the most elegant casual restaurant in town, and the most colorful. Booths of embossed yellow leather line walls and fill nooks; red accents set them off, as do vivid screenprints of agaves. Even without the din of diners and bustle of servers, liveliness fills the room.

The Price

$76 for two, including tax and tip. The food on its own doesn't quite earn it; are ambiance and artful presentation expected to take up the slack?

Next Time

Black-pepper tamarind shrimp is worthy of many more orders; chile relleno with pineapple-mango salsa beckons.

-- By Tracy Cumbay / Star Correspondent