The same hummus and Greek salad are on the menu, and a few members of the kitchen crew are still around, but The Parthenon is now Usual Suspects, a more mod spot with an "American eclectic" menu.

It's not an expensive place, but one with interesting food and an ambiance that's warmly stylish -- a laid-back joint, according to one of its owners.

"When we changed to Usual Suspects a year ago, we wanted to create a neighborhood atmosphere -- not an upscale place but a nice one," said Nancy Ficca, a member of Waterville Associates, which owns the restaurant. "We hope people will come in early to try the food and stay late to try the cocktails."

The Food

The brains behind Usual Suspects have enough Broad Ripple experience to know that their restaurant is likely to be one stop among many on any given evening, so they created a menu they hope suits that station.

"Sharing platters" make up the biggest portion of the menu, which also offers side and entree salads, and a few entree selections, including a daily fish special.

My party and I went for a fresh vegetable potato fritter ($7.50) -- a sweetish mix of eggplant, zucchini, bell peppers and onions melded with shredded potatoes and fried up in patties. Other versions of potato fritters on the menu are chorizo and Southwest salsa, and the intriguing chicken pot pie fritter. ("An inside-out chicken pot pie," according to the menu.)

From several combinations ready to be served as quesadillas or "gridwiches" -- sandwiches served on toasted, long buns -- we chose the Caribbean-style chicken quesadilla ($8.75) and our server's recommendation, the shrimp gridwich ($8.75).

The former included spicy grilled chicken and pepper Jack cheese; the latter was the hit of the meal, with shrimp coated in spicy chili sauce on bread brushed with garlic aioli.

An entree, chicken involtini ($16.75) showed up on a huge platter with sauteed vegetables and roasted potatoes. Stuffed with prosciutto and fontina cheese, the chicken was topped with a creamy Marsala sauce.

The Service

Our server had hustle, and he tended admirably to the entire, albeit small, dining room. Patience was another of his virtues, and one we tested but never noticeably depleted with questions about the unique menu. We were well taken care of throughout the meal.

The Atmosphere

In the small room, a bar greets diners, and tables line two sides of the restaurant (with choice seats next to the large windows that abut Guilford Avenue). Contemporary colors and fixtures are used to surprisingly cozy effect.

The Price

$73 for four people, including tax, tip and a bottle of wine (the night's special, for $15). The price was about right for the style and quality of the food.

Next Time

I'll check out the Usual Suspect's Cubano gridwich or the risotto -- Arborio rice, sauteed onions, garlic, corn and wild mushrooms drizzled with truffle oil. And the shrimp gridwich is worth a second visit.

-- By Tracy Cumbay / Star Correspondent