I have always wanted to try dinner at Dunaway's, the South East Street fine-dining establishment created by former St. Elmo Steak House owner Jeff Dunaway. So one Friday night after an especially taxing week, my husban and I met friends for what turned out to be the perfect antidote to a deadline-packed work schedule.

When we arrived for our 7:30 p.m. reservation, our table for four was ready, tucked into the corner of Dunaway's -fireplace room.- No crackling logs on this still-summer-warm night, but the atmosphere remained inviting, with dark-wood paneling, a beige-and-burgundy patterned carpet and white-clothed tables under a single electric chandelier and soft inset ceiling lights.

Wine connoisseurs will be in vino heaven here. The 28-page wine list details more than 1,200 selections, ranging from single-glass servings under $10 to a $2,100 bottle of burgundy and a circa-1929 cognac. Beer -- including several draft versions -- and specialty cocktails are available for those too overwhelmed to choose a grape-based beverage.

We started the meal with two seafood appetizers. I had heard many word-of-mouth ravings about Dunaway's Adriatic crab cake ($11), so this was a must-try. While my all-time favorite still remains at a little ocean-side hole-in-the-wall in Sebastian, Florida, Dunaway's version didn't disappoint. Quality crab is flavorful, not fishy, and this herb-seasoned starter followed through. More crab than cake -- another sign of success -- the meaty starter was fresh and moist, with an almost creamy consistency. It was sufficiently savory to stand alone, although two dipping sauces artfully accompanied the dish.

We also tried Dunaway's shrimp cocktail ($13), a worthy successor to St. Elmo's famous version. Like the steak house favorite, the horseradish-based -fire and brimstone- sauce sizzled on our taste buds. Unlike its predecessor, though, the five jumbo shrimp stand alone, allowing the diner to add as much or as little heat as desired (I say, bring it on.)

Freshly baked cheese-topped focaccia wedges provided pre-meal snacking for all of us, but hubby and I also opted to follow up our starters with salads. He chose a half-size house version ($4.50), a still-sufficient portion of mixed greens, grape tomatoes, cucumber slices and roasted red peppers tossed with a basil balsamic vinaigrette and topped with blue cheese crumbles.

My half-size wedge salad ($4.50) proved huge (a full-size wedge must be half a lettuce head), drizzled with blue-cheese dressing (I would have liked a bit more) and topped with candied pecans, with a few grape tomatoes and tart balsamic-poached-pear slices on the side. Had I finished this offering, I never would have made it through my entree, the lobster ravioli ($26).

That would have been a shame, because the quartet of ravioli (two made of white pasta, two from dark) contained tender bits of buttery lobster, accompanied by a broth-like sauce of garlic butter and white wine. More flaky crab meat rested atop the entree, a nice complement. I usually reserve my seafood indulgences for trips to tropical locales, where I can trust the just-caught mantra, but I savored this dish for its fresh flavors and subtle but sufficient seasonings.

My husband opted for red meat with the 10-ounce filet mignon ($35), ordered medium-rare. He's sensitive about his steaks arriving properly prepared, but this one hit the mark, and the filet was tender and lightly spiced. Instead of the regular mashed potatoes that come standard with the dish, he upgraded to a gorgonzola mash instead ($3 up-charge). These were tasty, although not as blue-cheesed-influenced as he had hoped.

Our pals decided to share an order of roasted twin chicken breasts ($26), which our server recommended as a good choice for splitting (and with no up-charge). The kitchen plated each goat-cheese-and-herb-stuffed breast separately, atop individual servings of whipped potatoes. A sun-dried apricot compote offered a sweet accompaniment. Both of the guys gave an unqualified thumbs-up to their -very tender- entrees.

We also all shared one of the menu's tempting sides, the Dunaway potatoes ($5). What can I say, other than cheese, cheese and more cheese? Diced white potatoes were smothered in creamy gruyere and topped with more shredded-cheese goodness. The single side offered enough for all of us to share with some to spare.

Due to our friends' entree restraint, they saved room for dessert. One went for a wedge of chocolate espresso fudge cake ($6), a multilayered concoction alternating moist cake with ganache and mousse. Because the layers were purposefully uneven, every bite was a surprise, he noted, with a slightly different taste sensation in each forkful.

Luckily for our second pal -- who turned into a key-lime-pie aficionado after a summer trip to Key West -- the selection of the day by pastry chef Andrew Johnson mirrored this new dessert obsession. Possibly the prettiest key lime creation I've seen, his individual round pie trimmed in a crumbly graham-cracker crust lived up to his lofty expectations. So good was the combination of sweet/tart flavors that he opted to box his up after only one bite, so he could savor it later without filling up.

After three hours (due to the unrushed pace and our own conversation, not because service was slow), we took the last sips of our drinks and headed out. We all appreciated the simple approach taken by chef Raymond Dial: nothing showy or over-the-top, just good food well prepared, with seasonings gentle enough to enhance while letting the quality of the ingredients shine through. Pricey, yes. But our stress had long since faded away, replaced by the satisfaction of a weekend well started with good friends and good food. That's worth a Friday-night investment.