When Levent Kurucay brought his high-style Turkish restaurant to Indianapolis (his others are in Ohio and Kentucky), he did so with the notion of becoming the city's most elegant option for Middle Eastern cuisine. A stunning dining room and top-notch service mean Istanbul Cafe's menu of subtly flavored Turkish dishes is showcased with flair.

The food

Istanbul Cafe is one of few restaurants in town that offers as many vegetarian dishes as meaty options. We started with two of them: zucchini pancakes ($6) and Ezme ($7). Three big patties of shredded zucchini and carrot with feta cheese were served with yogurt sauce. Ezme, a dip of finely diced tomatoes, peppers, parsley and walnuts had a tinge of lemon flavor and came with fluffy toasted pita for scooping.

The olive salad ($8) included fingers of toasted pita atop olive vinaigrette-dressed greens, tomatoes and sliced olives.

The night's special, lamb-stuffed eggplant ($16) meant a slice of eggplant topped with mild ground lamb in a rich tomato sauce. Sauteed vegetables and rice joined it on the plate.

Saksuka ($12), a dish of sauteed potatoes, zucchini, peppers and eggplant in a sweet tomato sauce, had a mild flavor and also was served with rice.

Desserts are homemade and, of course, include baklava ($4.50), but a fresher, more heavily honeyed version with few nuts. Chocolate pistachio cake ($6) has very subtle chocolate flavor and whole roasted pistachios among layers of cake and mousse.

The Service

The fine-dining vibe of Istanbul Cafe owes much to the servers, who dress and conduct themselves with a tinge of formality. We were well and graciously attended throughout our dinner.

The Atmosphere

Chartreuse walls set a cool, calming tone; zig-zagging pillars of bamboo add edge. Tables get the white linen touch, and minimal decor (a few pieces of china, some mirrors) punctuates the serene expanses.

The Price

$102 for two people, including tax, tip, a glass of Turkish wine and a martini. That felt awfully steep. Nice decor and professional service do not a $12 plate of veggies make.

Next Time

I heard a nearby diner exclaiming about his Mediterranean-style tilapia, broiled with capers, lemon, tomatoes and bay leaves. Heck, yes. And I will never stop in without ordering the dream-invading chocolate pistachio cake.

-- By Tracy Cumbay / Star Correspondent