The Conrad Hotel clamored into town last year with a splashy chef who proved interested in only a quick dip in Hoosier waters. Recently, the hotel regrouped and revamped its dining rooms. Now the Capital Grille, a posh steakhouse rapidly spreading its lobster bisque and filet Oscar across the country, makes its own splash.

The Food

After an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon and chevre, my date and I dug into an appetizer of pan-fried calamari with hot cherry peppers ($12). The tender calamari, topped by a confetti of hot and sweet peppers, made a memorable start not just for the heat of the green chiles but for the thin, crisp breading.

A cup of French onion soup ($5) and spinach salad ($8) with thick diced bacon and striking sweet dressing deliciously made up our superfluous second course. (Sharper tacks would have caught on to the generosity of the portions after the calamari, which could have sated four.)

Alongside its famous steaks, the Capital Grille offers lamb, veal, a couple of fish dishes and lobster. The Kona-crusted sirloin ($43 for a 20-ounce steak) was a succulent affair with a crisp edge from the delicate rub and a topping of caramelized shallots. The thick, well-marbled veal chop ($34) got a rich drench of Roquefort-butter sauce.

We chose headspinning sides of lobster mac 'n' cheese ($12) and truffle fries ($8). Big chunks of lobster mingled in almost every forkful with campanelle pasta in creamy cheese sauce. The thin fries tossed in truffle oil and grana padano cheese had a light crunch and an intense earthy flavor.

Key lime pie ($6.50) alone makes the restaurant worth visiting. The slice of smooth and not-too-dense filling balanced sweetness and bite.

The Service

Fine dining starts with excellent service, and the foundation is in place for the restaurant to dazzle customers. Our server didn't quite have her bearings in the very new restaurant and seemed slightly awed. She profited from an able assist by the efficient and professional team working with her.

The Atmosphere

Masculine and weighty, the dining rooms follow the dictates for steakhouse decor, but with more heads: mounted trophy heads and painted portrait heads of locals -- Irene Dunn gazes into the dining room from one wall, Tony Hulman from another. The din of the lively restaurant is difficult to overcome; combined with the broad tables, it makes conversation a challenge.

The Price

A robust $165 for two, including tax and tip. The value question tears at me: We enjoyed high-quality food served to us by a gracious and extensive staff, but more artful dishes show up on menus elsewhere. Anyone who worships at the altar of USDA Prime would likely assess the Capital Grille as unquestionably worth the price.

-- By Tracy Cumbay / Star Correspondent