It's inevitable: You drive along the curving path through leafy German Park toward Edelweiss Restaurant when you ask yourself: "Is this the place?"

The German American Klub comes into view, but that doesn't mean a visitor is out of the woods.

Step into the building, and some exploration to find the restaurant becomes necessary (down the stairs, can't miss it).

All that adds up to a delicious sense of discovery, one the restaurant has been working on since it opened in 1979.

The Food

Mingling with the sausage sampler and pork schnitzel on the lunch menu is more ordinary fare -- a BLT, crab cakes, a grilled chicken breast. Listed beside each dish is a member price and a nonmember price that's roughly 81/2 percent higher, but still hardly steep.

The pork schnitzel sandwich ($6.95/$8) comes with chips, but I substituted potato pancakes ($2) -- three crisp-shelled and soft inside cakes with serious heft and a slight flavor of sour cream. The schnitzel, pounded pork in a peppery, flaky breading, covered most of the plate.

Schweinebraten ($6.95/$8) comes with a thick slice of marble rye and a side. The tender slow-roasted pork is topped with a dab of gravy. The sauerkraut with it had some serious bite.

Sauerbraten ($7.95/$9.25), vinegar-marinated beef, was fatty but had a unique flavor. German potato salad was a sweet contrast.

Apple walnut strudel ($3) shows up as a huge slice of cinnamoned apples and walnuts in pastry shell, and custardy bread pudding ($4.25) is served with a strong and sweet whiskey sauce. Both were high notes to end on.

The Service

The server had hustle and, even better, the kind of warmth that made me feel that I was a member of the club, even though I'm not. (I could be, though, and so could you: Our server gave me a membership application and the briefest spiel about the benefits of joining up.)

The Atmosphere

The place is heavy on wood and light on recent upgrades or renovations. German sayings are painted here and there around the bar. The vibe is casual and clubby; everybody knew everybody but us.

The Price

$43.37, including tax and tip for lunch for three. Nothing seemed overpriced, in terms of quality or quantity. Desserts in particular are a great deal.

Next Time

Bier! The restaurant offers an interesting selection of bottled German brews that timing prohibited us from exploring.

-- By Tracy Cumbay / Star Correspondent