A cafe that adheres to the all-natural idiom of the dairy farm they've been running for years seemed a natural extension to Traders Point Creamery owners Peter and Jane Elder Kunz.

In fact, "people demanded it," said Jane Kunz.

The cafe serves only house-made fare created with as many local organic ingredients as chef Eric Piatek can get his hands on, and it does so in soothing arcadian splendor.

The Food

We started with the cheese plate ($7.95), which held samples of Traders Point's signature cheese, Fleur de la Terre -- a nutty, mild affair with a smooth, medium-soft texture. Three whipped cheeses, crackers and a bounty of fruit filled out the plate.

The Caesar salad ($6.95) had a zingy fresh dressing and a few bits of basil. The day's soup ($3.95) was a puree of cremini mushrooms with a dab of cream and plenty of room for the mushrooms to shine.

The five entrees are pasta-focused. I chose angel hair with pomodoro basil sauce ($9.95) and received an overwhelming bowl of pasta in sweet tomato sauce with a generous amount of basil. The mister was thrilled with his veal Marsala ($18.95) with herbed pasta. The wine sauce was light, the veal tender and rich.

A dish of dense, mildly flavored caramel ice cream ($3.95) provided some of my happiest moments of the summer so far. The lemon tart ($4.95) had a perfect, creamy texture and a great citrus bite.

The Service

A young service staff was devoted and friendly but not entirely polished. We weren't able to get answers to all our questions, but our drink glasses were always full, and we never wanted for attention.

The Atmosphere

The cafe is in the loft of a fancied-up barn building and beautifully walks the tightrope spanning charm preservation and contemporary comfort.

Along one side of the dining room is a big window into the cheese room, where wheels of Fleur de la Terre cheese age into tantalizing flavor. Look south and get an eyeful of treetop views, and north for a stone wall and grassy hill. Sit on the deck for pastoral panoramas.

The Price

$82.34 for two, including tax and tip -- a smidge steep.

Next Time

Friday nights are for the Green Market, a chance to shop a slew of organic vendors and to sample the cafe's dinner buffet. I'll be bringing the family for tastes and a guided tour of the farm.

-- By Tracy Cumbay / Star Correspondent