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• Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar

An eight ounce filet at Fleming's. (All photos by Star photographer Danese Kenon)

A mixed grill of stead, crab cake and ahi tuna.

An interior view of Fleming's.

The abundance of steakhouses in and around Indy ensures that there's always a new-to-you place to try when you're in the mood for protein. Ironically, the former tenant of the space occupied by Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar was a Gateway computer store, known for its black-and-white cow-print boxes.

My husband and I stopped by Fleming's for an early-week dinner to celebrate our upcoming anniversary. After a warm greeting by the staff, we were immediately led to a booth, despite our lack of a reservation and the surprisingly busy weeknight dining room packed with business types, families and couples. Most of the tables in the center of the main room were full, and we noticed other guests being led to an adjoining dining space.

Our server -- new on the job -- arrived promptly to welcome us and deliver thick bound menus, the first four pages of which list Fleming's many wine options. We skipped directly to the edibles, though, having fasted all day to make the most of our pricey feast. The offerings are, of course, what one expects of a steak house -- USDA prime aged steaks in a variety of cuts (filets, prime rib, New York strip), along with veal, lamb, pork and seafood selections.

While we debated our choices, we nibbled on the starter served to every table, toasty crostini served with a pinot grigio-infused white-cheddar spread and a tapenade made with olives, garlic, salt and pepper. We happily worked our way through these light bites. The appetizer listing tempted with its sweet chili calamari and wicked Cajun barbecue shrimp, but we reluctantly decided to skip this course with the hopes that we would have room for dessert later.

Instead, we went straight to the salad course. I ordered the Fleming's salad ($7.50), a mix of iceberg lettuce and field greens tossed with a sweet and light balsamic vinaigrette, hunks of candied walnut, juicy grape tomatoes and dried cranberries. More crostini -- these baked with a cheese topping -- accented the bowl.

Pete decided on the wedge ($8.50), a large double-sized version of the traditional iceberg-lettuce-based salad. It was covered with a thick, rich blue cheese dressing and topped with red onion slices, blue cheese crumbles and grape tomatoes. I sampled the dressing and liked its taste and texture, although Pete found it overwhelming.

Our entrees arrived shortly after the salad plates had been cleared, straight from the open kitchen that stretches along an entire wall of the main dining room. My 8-ounce petite filet mignon ($31.95) was cooked medium-well as ordered, and I enjoyed the tender, buttery taste of the meat despite Pete's chastising looks (anything cooked beyond medium is blasphemy to him). The filet looked tiny perched alone on a large white platter, but it was filling. I had requested a side of peppercorn sauce, which was flavorful but not as thick and spicy as other versions I've enjoyed.

Pete sampled the chef's mixed grill of the day ($40.95), a trio consisting of seared ahi tuna, a crab cake and a small sirloin steak. I coveted the crab cake, which was tall, thick and loaded with tender meat and very little filler.

The thick slab of pepper-crusted ahi tuna had a nice flavor, although both Pete and I prefer this delicacy sliced thinner. Pete's favorite part of the trio was the juicy sirloin, cooked to his request of medium.

We had also ordered a side of Fleming's jalapeño-accented cheddar cheese potatoes, billed as a house specialty. However, our server forgot to submit that request with our entree order. Since that particular side takes 15 to 20 minutes to prepare, we decided on a last-minute substitute, chipotle cheddar macaroni and cheese ($7.95). Large enough to share (with plenty left over), the mac and cheese had a nice, creamy consistency with a smoky taste and a bit of zing from the chipotle peppers.

Our earlier appetizer restraint paid off with a dessert order to wrap up our meal. I got no further on the menu than the words "chocolate lava cake" ($9.95).

Another house specialty, this incredibly indulgent little creation also takes 20 minutes to prepare, but it's worth the wait. A ring of perfectly browned, gooey chocolate cake with a molten chocolate center is sprinkled with powdered sugar and served with two scoops of vanilla ice cream. The result, as Pete said, tastes like an upscale version of a chocolate brownie dunked in warm chocolate sauce.

Despite the large dining room, Fleming's is a cozy spot with low light levels, comfortable seating and attentive service. Our server was quick to tell us about the side-order mishap and offer alternatives; a manager even dropped by to apologize, although we weren't upset. (Life is too short to quibble over sides).

All told, Fleming's holds its own on the local steak house scene.

Julie Cope Saetre / Star correspondent