With a locale in the thick of Broad Ripple action and all the firepower of the immensely popular Cafe Patachou restaurants, Petite Chou by Patachou seemed poised for success even before its doors opened.

My guest and I made our way several times to the cafe at the tail ends of lunch hours to find the house full and a bevy of other would-be diners waiting outside. No surprise there, and no surprise to find that the cafe provides the same creativity and high quality that the other Patachou locations are known for, but this time with a French twist.

The Food

Although the Petite Chou menu feels decidedly Patachou and includes some favorites from the longstanding menu (croissant French toast and the chopped Cobb salad), it veers sharply toward Paris, putting its chicken and egg salads not between two slices of bread but on one, like a French tartine.

We started with a cup of soup ($3.25), a lightly flavored leek-watercress version that had a smidge of cream and a few shavings of salty cheese. The smoothie of the day ($3.95), a peach-strawberry blend gloriously fruity and heavy on the peach, did battle with the sun blazing upon our patio table.

A place couldn't earn the name "Patachou" if it didn't include those famous omelets. My companion was drawn in by the omelet of the day, a fluffy three-egger with ham, Gruyere and pesto, served with two thick slices of buttered toast and a cup of fresh fruit.

The novelty of crepes on the menu swept me away, and I ordered two. First, a ratatouille version ($8.95) in which the giant, chewy crepe wrapped around a mix of still-firm sauteed eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes and onions with feta cheese and some kind of voodoo that possessed me until the plate was clear of crepe and the lightly dressed greens nuzzled next to it. Later, I was overtaken again by the chocolate ganache crepe ($4.95) filled with velvety chocolate and sprinkled with pistachios.

Tiny macaroons ($3.50 for three) gave us airy, barely sweet nibbles to end on.

The Service

During this, as during other Patachou visits, the service was exceedingly warm but came at too-long intervals between servers' hurried strides from table to table to kitchen and back. Staff members aid decision-making by showing off dishes as they pass by ("This is the lemon tart -- it's amazing"), and they charm diners when time allows.

The Atmosphere

It's as if owner Martha Hoover built walls around springtime, capturing crisp April air within chartreuse walls. Fuchsia flowers in small black-and-white vases top each table. Lushly upholstered banquette seating contrasts with black-and-white floors and chairs.

The Price

$43.82 including tax, tip and decidedly more food than was necessary for two. My Patachou routine is the same at any location: Open menu, grumble over prices, receive food, wax blissful, decide food is well worth the cost. The prepared food, that is. I can't imagine circumstances wherein a single can of Coke reasonably costs $1.95.

Next Time

I'll answer the burning question I've had since I first came in contact with the Petite Chou menu: Is croque monsieur -- sort of a chichi grilled ham and cheese with Gruyere and bechamel sauce -- overly rich or a taste of le paradis?

-- By Tracy Cumbay / Star Correspondent