A barbecue joint, tradition dictates, has to "smell like heaven and look like hell" to be worth a visit.

Famous Dave's looks new and decidedly sturdier, cleaner and more like it was designed by committee than most barbecue restaurants. But as much as that might scare off enthusiasts, the sweet scents billowing from the front doors are a fair reason to overlook the high shine on the wood.

The Food

The focus at Famous Dave's is on the barbecue, but a few other offerings show up on the menu for recalcitrant members of a party: "sweet and sassy grilled salmon," a grilled-chicken Caesar salad, a smoked salmon appetizer, a burger.

In a place with red-checked vinyl tablecloths, though -- even one as clean and sparkling-new as Famous Dave's -- barbecue seems the better choice than anything with a pineapple glaze.

My guest and I chose an appetizer of sweetwater catfish fingers ($7.49) -- pink and flavorful catfish shrouded in a salty lemon-pepper breading and served with hot-sweet jalapeno marmalade and spicy remoulade.

Ribs are baby back or St. Louis style; my guest ordered a platter of the former ($19.99), which were chewy, lightly smoky and a little sweet. Entrees come with fluffy cornbread muffins, corn on the cob and two sides from a list of standards -- cole slaw, baked apples, potato salad and such. He chose exemplary baked beans and an order of fries. (These aren't typical fries; they're a crisp ruffled version.)

I filled out a two-meat barbecue combo ($12.99) with tender, well-seasoned beef brisket and spicy hot links -- each a spiritual experience. Green beans mistakenly designated as "firecracker" were bland, and garlic red-skinned mashed potatoes didn't add much, either.

Key lime pie ($4.99) on thick graham cracker crust tendered more sweetness than tartness.

The Service

I wanted to write odes to our server, who held an aura of hospitality and thoughtfulness. Other servers in the restaurant appeared to be similarly equipped: I overheard insider recommendations and witnessed more than usual graciousness at surrounding tables.

The Atmosphere

Famous Dave's interior is irony defined: a brand-spankin'-new facility that emulates ramshackle barbecue joints. Lights are strung across the ceiling, and special-ordered old-timey wood signs fill the walls of the boisterous, casual restaurant. A bar on one side of the restaurant abuts a separate carryout area for the steady stream of customers stopping by for a pound of chopped pork and quart of baked beans or bottles of any of Famous Dave's six sauces.

The Price

$54 for two including tax and tip, minus $7.49 for the appetizer that came late and so was lopped off our bill without any fuss. The prices are a little steep if you're used to barbecue you carry out from local spots, but not out of line with the quality of the total experience.

Next Time

The sweetwater catfish will always be part of my order, and so will the Wilbur beans. Next time, I'll try a Georgia chopped pork sandwich or the barbecued chicken.

-- By Tracy Cumbay / Star Correspondent