'Sammy!" call out diners to Ichiban's head sushi chef and general manager as they enter the small restaurant. Affection is warranted: Gorgeous, fresh and inventive rolls dominate a sushi menu that leaves out no favorite. And the restaurant is a good place to while away the long moments of anticipation as Sammy and his two or three fellow chefs hustle behind the sushi bar. That wait may feel long, but any tension dissipates with the first bite.

The Food

Ichiban's menu takes some studying. Its appetizers, entrees, combinations and sushi cover several pages. We skipped over shrimp tempura or gyoza in favor of yellowtail nigiri ($4), and more sushi rolls than turned out to be reasonable.

Spicy tuna ($5) was shown up by the gorgeous, succulent dragon maki ($8.50), an eel-and-cucumber roll wrapped in sliced avocado. I worried in vain that the tropical mango roll ($9.50) would be overly sweet; diced mango melded with salmon and avocado for a uniquely savory, rich combination.

Rock-n-roll ($9) is a tempura-fried roll with eel, tobiko, crab and asparagus. Dabs of chile sauce buoyed the roll with heat. The H.K. roll ($12.95) was a scene-stealer wrapped in soft, bright yellow soy paper. Three kinds of fish, along with tobiko, toasted sesame seeds, wasabi and avocado, filled it out, and three sauces were drizzled in a web on the plate.

Entrees were served with miso soup and the usual iceberg salad with ginger dressing, but I had mine with octopus salad for an extra $3.50. Tender bites of octopus mixed with rice vinegar, ginger, sesame oil and tiny chile rings made up the heavenly dish.

Beef negimaki ($13.50) arrived on a sizzling cast iron platter. Thinly sliced steak wrapped around scallions is cut into bite-sized rolls and covered in teriyaki sauce and onions. Fish katsu ($13) includes several pieces of panko-crusted red snapper and a sweet, thick sauce for dipping.

Had we slowed down on the sushi, we could have chosen among mochi, green tea ice cream, or ice cream tempura for dessert. Better a dragon roll, in my book.

The Service

Expect to be served well. Every server we encountered (and no fewer than three doted on us) was exceedingly gracious. The team service approach meant that we never had time to long for drinks or being rid of dishes.

The Atmosphere

In a dining room small enough to sweep with a glance, a sushi bar claims about a fifth of the space. Low booths line an opposite wall, and two screened rooms fill the far side. Decor is understated; a soft-colored mural next to the sushi bar and colorful screens behind it do most of the talking.

The Price

$103, including tax and tip for about twice as much food as was necessary for two people. The prices make perfect sense for the quality, presentation and service.

Next Time

During future visits, octopus salad is the only deviation I'll make from the sushi menu. I'm counting the minutes until I can make it back for the H.K. roll.

-- By Tracy Cumbay / Star Correspondent