Don't think you can afford to be a food snob for a day? Oakleys Bistro on West 86th Street may change your mind.

A professional chef and wait staff, and upscale presentation? Yep. All for less than 20 bucks.

If you play your cards right, you could sneak in and out of this high-class restaurant for a lot less than you thought.

The mood

The servers were dressed in long aprons; crisp linens covered the indoor tables. We opted to sit under an umbrella on the patio, where the service and surroundings were just as impressive as those inside.

Though the Bistro's classical music, men in business dress, and groups of lunching ladies made me keep my elbows off the table, my friend Jen and I didn't feel out of place. Instead, we felt more like we were treating ourselves.

The food

The menu choices weren't items I was used to deciding among -- shrimp tarts, creme brulee, mushroom crepes . . . . Though the menu wasn't long, Jen and I still contemplated for quite awhile. She chose the farmer's greens salad ($7.75) and I the fettucini ($9.75).

Both dishes arrived with remarkable presentation on stark white plates. Jen's greens were combined with almonds, pears, Parmesan, cucumbers and carrots, and then tossed with a pear chardonnay vinaigrette.

I didn't want to destroy my carefully constructed tower of pasta, but it just smelled too good. I'd expected white sauce, but the red sauce I got was delicious. Roasted pine nuts added sweetness to accompany the creamy goat cheese.

Jen wasn't stuffed by her salad, but could have added chicken or salmon. My fettucini was filling, and I probably could have crammed in dessert had there been more cash, or had I had an extra stomach.

The drinks

We both ordered water to stay within our budget; our glasses were refilled frequently by our server.

The damage: $18.90

Oakleys had better service, better cuisine and better atmosphere than can usually be afforded for our small budget, but I'm glad we made the stop. The dinner menu has more selections, and complimentary wine-tasting is offered every Tuesday from 5 to 6 p.m. Dig out those nice slacks or a skirt and give yourself a little taste of the good life.