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• G.T. South's Rib House

Pork Platter with Baked Beand and Mac and Cheese ($7.75) from G.T. South's. (Tom Klubens / for INtake for The Star)

1/3 Slab Ribs with Taters and Gravy and Turnip Greens ($7.25) from G.T. South's, 4919 S. Emerson Ave. (Tom Klubens / for INtake for The Star)

Just one time, one time, I want one of our restaurant picks to be awful all around, complete with whining servers and unrecognizable entrees. (I must be in the mood to be rude.) But no such "luck" with G.T. South's on South Emerson Avenue. G.T.'s claims to be the area's only bona fide Southern barbecue joint, and while I can't authenticate that statement, the numerous awards the restaurant has won speak well for the food served here.

After meeting at college in Georgia, G. Travis and Gladys South eventually brought their cooking traditions to Indiana ..... and I'm very glad they did.

The mood

The restaurant gives off a family reunion-in-the-church- basement vibe. The food, apparently, draws 'em in -- not the plywood wainscoting or blue carpeting.

Just past a large wooden doorway, the hostess stand is positioned between the carryout counter and bar to the right and the raised, all-ages dining area to the left.

Up the stairs we went to claim our seats at G.T.'s, along with many others who seemed to be regulars, based on the servers' friendly and casual conversation with them. Ormaybe everyone is family at a place like this -- what with Southern hospitality and all.

The food

You'll find good home-style food here. Chicken wings and barbecue nachos make up the entire appetizer list, but the main attractions are the ribs and pulled pork and chicken.

I forced my companion, Jen, to get the ribs (since I'm not a big rib eater, and I figured one of us should get them at a barbecue restaurant), but I didn't have to twist her arm too hard.

She picked a third of a slab of dry ribs, with G.T.'s very own mild sauce on the side ($7.25). She also chose taters and gravy and turnip greens as her sides, although she confessed the greens were to bypass any guilt for not having veggies in her order.

Judging by the swiftness of her plate-clearing, the ribs were finger-lickin' good, along with the mashed potatoes. Turnip greens must be an acquired taste.

I wanted to try the pulled pork sandwich, but figured since G.T.'s is so affordable I'd go for the platter ($7.75). I assumed an extra side dish with my sandwich was my perk in the platter, but soon found there was no sandwich involved. Instead, a mound of pulled pork arrived in front of me, topped with mild sauce (hot and "911" sauces are also available). Cornbread came standard. Baked beans and mac and cheese were my choices for sides.

The pork was delicious -- smoky and tender -- and the sauce was a tangy, sweet contrast. The beans were beans, and the macaroni was typical.

Dessert choices of sweet potato pie and peach cobbler, among others, sounded great when we arrived, but by the end of that meal, we couldn't take another bite.

The drinks

Two waters. We try to be as lame as possible with the drink choices.

The damage: $16.20

Jen and I enjoyed our brief stay down south. And I truly mean brief. The food was out in a flash. If you're looking for some comfort food, as we were, G.T. South's is your place, either on Emerson Avenue, or at the original location on 71st Street.