A lot of people approach dinner at a Japanese steakhouse with the "you've eaten at one, you've eaten at all" philosophy. And that does have some truth behind it.

Communal seating around a hibachi table, knife rattling and food tossing by a pleasant chef, grilled meats and veggies cooked to order -- you know the drill.

Of course, if you happen to like that drill, consistency can be a good thing, indeed.

Hop to the hibachi

My husband and I joined our friends John and Jason -- hibachi-steakhouse virgins -- for a Saturday-night meal at Sapporo of Japan in Castleton.

The mood is set immediately, thanks to a large indoor koi pond covered by a quaint wooden bridge (roped off, but that didn't stop plenty of kids from jumping on).

Sapporo is divided into two sections: the softly lit steakhouse area in back and a brighter sushi-bar space up front. No sushi for us this evening -- we were here for the grill.

Once our party was complete, we were shown to one of the 10 hibachi-grill tables (each seating 10 diners), and our server promptly took drink orders and passed out menus and hot towels.

The atmosphere throughout the steakhouse area is lively, punctuated by plenty of chopping, spice-can rattling and the occasional roaring flame designed to elicit oohhs from the captive audience.

Saucy bird

While a small list of starters is available, each entree includes onion soup and a "Sapporo salad" (the menu also promised a shrimp appetizer, but it never materialized).

The clear onion soup -- while most certainly more healthful than a beef-broth-based, gooey-cheese-topped version -- was a bit bland.

The Sapporo salad consisted of chopped iceberg lettuce topped with ginger dressing. Next up: fried rice prepared on the grill for John and Jason, steamed rice for the hubby and me (although our convivial chef gave the two of us small samples of the indulgent fried variety). Hot, crispy seared noodles and veggies quickly followed.

Not wanting to choose between our favorite proteins, Pete and I both ordered the shrimp/chicken/steak combo ($23.95 each).

The shrimp, while not as large as some others we have encountered, were grilled to perfection. Likewise the thinly sliced steak, which I couldn't seem to eat fast enough, dipped into the sauces (plum and mustard) provided with the meal.

The chicken was served up already coated in a teriyaki sauce. While I would have preferred an uncoated version (those dipping sauces are plenty for me), the sweet teriyaki flavoring was fine.

John specifically ordered the saucy bird and seemed pleased with his teriyaki-seasoned chicken entree ($14.50). Jason, meanwhile, went for the yakisoba special with chicken ($15.50), which mixed the eponymous noodles in a special light sauce with poultry and vegetables; he gave it a favorable nod as well.

Getting stuffed

Dessert isn't included with the meals, although a small variety of ice cream flavors (including green tea) is available. If you're still hungry after the edible processional, though, you're a more resilient eater than anyone in our party.

Not everyone I know enjoys the whole Japanese-steakhouse thing; some folks consider it cliche.

But as the saying goes, cliches develop for a reason. Sapporo does an admirable job with the concept, a cut above similar experiences I've had in town, and the service was spot-on.

-- By Julie Cope-Saetre / INtake Correspondent, 07/05/2007