Twenty minutes into our lovely, leisurely meal at Hot Tuna in the Omni Hotel Downtown, I commented to my husband, "We really should be celebrating something." The food was just too pretty, the service too sleek, the atmosphere too relaxed, for this to be just a regular Monday-night dinner. I usually approach upscale hotel restaurants with a bit of trepidation, anticipating meals at put-it-on-the-expense-account prices. But Hot Tuna and its American cuisine quickly calmed my culinary nerves.

Room with a view

Our greeter/server, the gracious Jay, offered us our choice of black-cloth-draped tables on this quiet evening. We sat by large southern windows, where we could enjoy views of both Union Station and Hot Tuna's chic, bright interior, accented with mirrored walls, dark-wood trim and droplights.

Dinner started with a selection of rolls, brought to us by the equally pleasant and efficient Michelle, along with regular butter, plus port/blue cheese and mustard-enhanced versions.

Then came a tasty treat: an artfully prepared amuse bouche of seared ahi tuna over fresh mango salsa. Executive Chef Daniel Noble set the bar for the rest of the meal with his offering, arranged atop an oversize curved spoon; drizzles of green-tea and pepper sauces across the serving plate added an extra dash of color and taste.

Calculating calamari

By the time our appetizer arrived, Pete and I realized our average weeknight dinner had turned into something special. The Asian five-spice calamari ($9) filled an oblong white bowl, accompanied by a sweet, spicy ginger sauce in its own square dipping dish. Topped with delicate watercress, the nothing-chewy-about-it calamari was coated in a crispy, light batter, to which the dipping sauce clung but never overpowered.

Our meals included a choice of soup or salad. I ordered the thick, savory white-mushroom soup, which arrived in a copper pot complete with a delicate lemon-grass stalk tucked into its long handle. A sample of this yummy concoction pleased even Pete, usually no fan of mushrooms, which made frequent unwelcome appearances in the family casseroles of his youth.

Meanwhile, he shared a taste of the thick, tangy, house-made blue cheese dressing that topped his wedge salad. The rich dressing, containing plenty of blue-cheese crumbles for added texture, was perfect not only as a lettuce topping, but for accenting the salad's accompanying fresh cherry tomatoes.

The main events

But the best was still on its way. As Michelle cleared away the soup and salad dishes, we eagerly anticipated Jay's next appearance, this time with our entrees. Yet again, they inspired oohs and aahs. My admiration-worthy Air, Land and Sea entree ($31) featured a melt-in-your-mouth filet mignon balanced on a chive potato puree bed, into which nestled bite-size morsels of succulent lobster. Atop the filet rested a toasted French-bread slice accented with foie gras hummus. A rich red-wine demiglace added the finishing touch to a dish that I consumed without an ounce of room left over for guilt about my indulgence.

Pete was equally enraptured by his Snake River Farms pork filet. Roasted and sliced, the tender American Kurobuta pork lived up to its reputation for tenderness and quality (Snake River Farms also is known for its American kobe-beef products). Meanwhile, Chef Noble once again showed a talent for pairing his dishes with ideally complemented accents: a Dijon cream sauce (which enhanced the pork's gentle flavor with a hint of spice) and a fluffy roasted-garlic potato puree.

I can only imagine how tasty (and gorgeous) the desserts must be, because by the time the remainder of our meals had been quickly boxed and bagged, we couldn't imagine inhaling one more bite. Thoroughly relaxed and with taste buds well sated, we strolled out into a balmy summer night. Oh, but we'll be back the next time we need something to celebrate -- a Tuesday evening, say. Or maybe a Wednesday.

-- By Julie Cope-Saetre / INtake Correspondent, 08/09/2007