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Dining review: Oishi Sushi & Grill

Indy.com Staff
by Indy.com Staff

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VENUE INFO

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An interior view of the eastside Japanese restaurant, Oishi Sushi and Grill. (6929 East 10th Street). (Frank Espich / The Star)
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Two popular dishes, cali-mango (foreground) and Boston roll (background) at Oishi Sushi & Grill. (Frank Espich / The Star)
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The chicken udon soup entrŽe at Japanese restaurant Oishi Sushi & Grill. (Frank Espich / The Star)
152709
An interior view of the eastside Japanese restaurant, Oishi Sushi and Grill. (6929 East 10th Street). (Frank Espich / The Star)
152708
Two popular dishes, cali-mango (foreground) and Boston roll (background) at Oishi Sushi & Grill. (Frank Espich / The Star)
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The chicken udon soup entree at Japanese restaurant Oishi Sushi & Grill. (Frank Espich / The Star)

Oi! This is the real thing!

New spot is hot, despite its setting's sad history as a Ponderosa

I approached Oishi Sushi & Grill with a mixture of hope and trepidation. Hope, because Indy's Eastside is starving for diverse, independently owned restaurants. Trepidation, because Oishi Sushi is located in the home of a former Ponderosa in a small strip mall, not exactly an attractive location.

But as soon as I crossed the threshold, hope won out. You would never guess the interior once served up mass-production meat in a bland setting.

A hostess greeted us warmly and showed us to a booth in an immaculate dining room where polished-wood tabletops reflect tones of the deep-red carpet, and Japanese silk screens and red silk lanterns lend elegance. A sushi bar curves along the south wall, while three private tatami rooms line the west side of the room.

The menu offers a variety of sushi rolls, both basic and specialty varieties, served individually or as part of dinners accompanied by miso soup and salad. Also available are sashimi (a la carte or dinners), 20 appetizers, udon and soba noodle bowls, tempura, Mongolian grill entrees and teriyaki dinners.

We pondered our options as we sipped soft drinks -- Oishi hasn't yet obtained a liquor license. I started off with the Cali-Mango roll ($8.95), topped with slivers of mango.

Pete went with the Boston version ($5.95), with fresh shrimp, lettuce and cucumber. It would be easy to meet a few friends here, order a variety of rolls and make a meal of it, as a large group of diners near us seemed to be doing.

After I ordered my Cali-Mango roll and returned to the menu, I noticed a dinner box special for $19.95 that included a California roll, seaweed salad and two entrees -- a tempting offering. But since I'd already gobbled a fair share of sushi, I ordered the beef teriyaki dinner ($15.75), with thin, juicy meat slices in a thick, flavorful sauce. Pete chose the chicken udon soup ($11.50).

His super-sizzling, oversized soup bowl arrived literally too hot to handle. Japanese comfort food at its best, the soup featured a savory broth with generous, tender chunks of chicken.

Prices here aren't exactly cheap: Our bill came to $49.20. But here's hoping Oishi Sushi survives. The owners clearly have invested time and money into making the experience here relaxing and authentic. I'll do my part to support their efforts when I return for that dinner box and some green tea ice cream.

Taste Test

Sushi:

Cali-Mango Roll, $8.95.

Boston Roll, $5.95.

Entrees:

Beef Teriyaki, $15.75.

Chicken Udon Soup, $11.50.

Oishi Sushi & Grill

Where: 6929 E. 10th St.

Atmosphere: Casual.

Parking: Lot.

Details: V/MC; tatami rooms available; lunch specials.

Hours: Lunch: Daily 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Dinner: 4 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Friday; 4:30 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday; 4:30 to 9.p.m. Sunday.

Information: (317) 356-8880.

- By Julie Cope Saetre / Indy.com correspondent

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