Like many ethnic eateries worth discovering, Mix 5 doesn't attract with flashy environs or slick advertising. Nor does it depend on curb appeal -- you have to look to find this place, tucked into an unassuming strip mall at 71st Street and Michigan Road.

No, the Iraqi eatery relies on more old-fashioned virtues: authentic cuisine simply prepared and served without fanfare in a tidy dining room.

The action here is split between the dining space in front and a Middle Eastern/Mediterranean grocery in back. The restaurant is a seat-yourself kind of place, so my husband and I slipped into a red-cushioned booth as the owner/server greeted us with a "hello" from the kitchen doorway.

He arrived promptly with menus and took our drink orders as we savored the exotic scents wafting through the space. Offerings here center on kebabs, shawarma platters, sandwiches and appetizers (hummus, baba ghanouj, dolma). There's also a Mix 5 "home-style" burger -- although why anyone would go that route is beyond me.

That's because the authentic dishes, while steeped in Middle Eastern spices, are neither heat-intensive nor overpowering. You know you're eating international cuisine, but it's a pleasant expedition into new territory, not an overwhelming one.

Since both of our entrees came with starters of hummus and baba ganouj, we didn't order appetizers. For my entree, I chose the Iraqi lamb kufta (kebab) ($7.95), two skewers of ground lamb meat, seasoned and grilled over charcoal. Subtly spiced, the lamb tasted similar to beef.

Pete struck gold with the house platter ($12.95), a sampler of four kebabs (chicken, lamb, beef tikka and Iraqi beef). Order this at risk of having your fellow diners steal away the juicy chunks of meat "just to try it." As an accompaniment, Pete ordered Ayran, described as a yogurt beverage, and that's what it turned out to be: a drinkable version of the unflavored dairy product.

Our only glitch in the meal came at the end. We considered ordering dessert (Mix 5 offers baklava and the Iraqi daheen), but our server didn't reappear. He had gotten busy with duties in the adjacent store.

So while we skipped the sweet ending, we still left with the satisfaction that comes from enjoying a new-to-us cuisine.

Taste Test

Starters:

Hummus and baba ghanouj (included with meals).

Entrees:

Lamb Iraqi kebab, $7.95.

House platter, $12.95.

Mix 5

Where: 2989 W. 71st St., (317) 298-5355.

Atmosphere: Casual.

Parking: Lot.

Details: V/MC/DIS/AMEX; no smoking; no alcohol.

Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday through Sunday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

By Julie Cope Saetre / Indy.com Correspondent